High Lifter Outlaw Clutch Kit for Arctic Cat 500i Auto (06-09) - Manual (Page 2)

4. Remove the large nut (32mm) that holds the secondary (rear) clutch on. Remove the clutch from the machine.
Using a spanner wrench or punch and a hammer loosen the large nut holding the secondary spring retainer. ONLY
TURN NUT 1/2 TURN - DO NOT TOTALLY REMOVE THE NUT. The nut and retainer are under extreme
pressure and can cause damage or injury if not removed properly. Using a compression tool (available
through EPI) or a press, carefully compresses the spring enough to take the pressure off the nut. Remove the nut
and slowly release the pressure off the spring. Remove the spring.
5. Put the EPI spring in the clutch. Place the spring retainer on top of the spring. Set the nut on top of the spring
retainer, using the compression tool (EPI part #CCT510) slowly and carefully compress the spring until you can start
to thread the nut onto the shaft. You might need to take a punch or a screwdriver and rotate the spring retainer so
the flat spots line up properly to fully compress the spring. Once the retainer is in place tighten the nut, remove
clutch from press and torque nut to 72 ft/lbs.
6. Remove the oil drain plug from the motor. If you can, carefully drain the oil into a clean container. You should be
able to reuse the oil.
7. Remove the inner half of the primary clutch from the machine. Remove 3 phillips screws that hold the metal plate
onto the aluminum clutch housing. Remove the metal plate and rubber gasket behind it. Remove the bolts holding
the aluminum clutch housing; keep track of each bolt length and location. Once all the bolts have been removed
slowly pull the cover towards you being careful not to damage the gasket. If the gasket is damaged you will need to
install a new one. Some oil may leak from the housing when cover is first removed, this is normal. Some models
may have a vent hose connected to the back of the housing that must be loosened and removed once the housing is
free from the motor. Note: There is a directional bearing inside the clutch housing. If it did not come out
when removing the housing it should be good. If it came out, replace the bearing, the arrow should be facing out so
it points in the clockwise direction.
8. Remove the nut (left handed threads usually a 22mm) holding the internal clutch on. Slide the clutch basket off;
keep track of which side faces out. Place the clutch on a clean work surface. Push down slightly on the outside
cover and remove the e-clips. Keeping track of which way they come off remove the three metal plates one at a
time. This will allow you to see and change all of the primary springs. Install the EPI springs by inserting the spring
into the outer edge first. Using a spring tool or pliers pull on the spring and insert the end into the inner hole.
Install the three inner plates and the e-clips. If the three plates don’t seem to fit flat or correctly to install the e-
clips, check to see if one of the five spragues is sticking up. If it is remove one end of the spring on the sprague
that is sticking up, push down and reinstall spring. Slide the clutch back onto the machine and install nut. Torque
the nut to 94 ft/lbs. Clean both gasket surfaces, install new gasket and the aluminum housing. Torque the housing
bolts to 7.2 ft/lbs. Install metal plate and rubber gasket onto the housing.
9. Install the clutch housing and bolt to the machine. If your model had a vent line connected to the back of the
housing install the clutch housing by first installing the vent line on the back of the housing, and then bolt the
housing onto the machine. Push the inner half of the primary clutch back on the shaft. Install the center shaft.
While holding the secondary clutch, rotate one half to open the clutch slightly and install belt into the clutch. The
belt must be stuck inside the clutch approximately ½ from the outside edge for proper installation. Most belts have
an arrow indicating direction of rotation. If your belt doesn’t, be sure to install it so that you can read the part
number. In either case, always run the belt the same direction as it was new. With the belt inside the clutch, slide
the secondary clutch onto the rear shaft and torque nut to 83 ft/lbs.
10. Grab the primary clutch, push the inner part down with your thumbs and hold down as you pick up the clutch.
While holding the inner part of the clutch from moving, slide the primary clutch onto the front shaft. This should
keep the rollers in place. Keep it pushed in until you can install the nut. The clutch should slide all the way back
easily, if the clutch doesn’t seem to go on far enough to tighten nut properly (it should slide all the way onto the
edge of the splines) you might have a roller out of place or the belt might be blocking it. If needed move the belt up
and down to see if the clutch will slide on further. Rolling clutch counter clockwise while pushing in will help the
clutch slide back on the splines. If rollers seem out of place take the clutch apart and check roller location. Install
nut and torque to 83 ft/lbs.
11. Assemble the aluminum clutch cover and gasket. Install the part of the clutch cover and the vent hose. Install foot
rest and brake pedal assembly. Make sure the return spring is in place. Attach fenders to the foot rest.
12. Install oil drain plug. Refill your engine oil to the proper level according to your owners manual. You can reuse
your oil if it was clean and was drained into a clean container. Only use manufactures recommended oil for proper
engine and clutch operation.
13. Go out and ride your machine. If the performance doesn’t seem right double check to make sure everything has
been done properly.
NOTICE: Even with this clutch kit, you should be advised that using substantial throttle when the tires are not able to
spin can cause the belt to slip and damage may occur. EPI recommends that the transmission be shifted into low
range when high load, slower speed situations are encountered. EPI is not responsible for any damage to the drive
belt or any other original equipment component.