John Wood Atmospheric Gas (Non-FVIR) - Manual (Page 10)

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Discolored Water
• Water rich in iron or other minerals can produce red or brown
staining. Heating water generally worsens this situation.
• Black water can be an indication of organic contaminates in the
water supply. This can be problematic in areas where the water
is obtained from surface or contaminated sources. Organic
particles can develop bacterial growth, causing potential health
hazards. Contact your water supplier for proper filtration or water
conditioning equipment. For bacterial problems contact your
local health authority. See also “Hot Water Odour”
• A sudden appearance of rusty water can indicate the anode rod
has been depleted. The remaining steel core wire may be
corroding, releasing iron particles into the water. Inspect and
replace as necessary.
Water Heater Makes Noise
• During start up or under heavy use, condensation can drip on
the burner causing a sizzling noise as the water is evaporated.
This is normal and will stop once temperatures rise.
• Sediment, sand or scale can accumulate resulting in “rumbling”
noises. Water heaters need to be flushed regularly to minimize
buildup. Severe accumulations can cause premature failure of
the water heater and will void the warranty.
Condensation
At certain times of the year, when the incoming water is
particularly cold there will be condensation formed from the flue
gases while the burner is on. This condensation will drop down
onto the burner and make a hissing or sizzling sound. This is
normal and should not be a reason for concern. Normally, this
condensation will evaporate and be carried up the flue and
chimney to the outdoors.
Generally, the higher the efficiency of the heater and the cooler
the incoming water, the more condensation will occur. The bottom
pan of the heater has been designed to contain a certain amount
of water, but on occasion the water may be too much and
overflow. Do not confuse this with a leaking heater.
If condensation is a problem, raise the water temperature slightly
to operate the tank at a higher temperature and thus minimize
condensation.
Extended Non Use Service
Hydrogen gas can be produced by water heaters in service but on
standby for long periods of time (generally two weeks or more).
See safety warnings near the front of the manual. Hydrogen gas
is extremely flammable. Use caution in opening faucets.
Energy Conservation
The following are some simple tips that will help reduce energy
costs and provide maximum service from your water heater.
Temperature:
Set temperature as low as possible to provide an
adequate supply of hot water. This will reduce heat loss and
extend the life of the glass-lining.
Water usage:
Try to use less hot water by doing laundry and
dishwashing at the lowest temperature. Showers are more
economical than baths. Small amounts of dishes should be
washed by hand. Eliminate dripping faucets.
Water heater location:
Locate heater close to a major point
of hot water use, e.g. laundry washer. This minimizes heat losses
from piping and gets water to appliance at maximum temperature.
Do not locate heater in cold or drafty locations.
Piping:
Insulate all hot water pipes. This reduces heat loss from
pipes. Keep pipe runs as short as possible to deliver water to the
point of use quickly.
Going away?:
If you are leaving for a period of time, turn the
temperature dial to the lowest setting. There is no point in heating
what is not needed.
Cathodic Protection: Anode
Maintenance
Your water heater has been supplied with one or two anode rods
that protects the tank from corrosion. As the rod works, it slowly
dissolves over time and must be replaced. If the anode is less
than 3/8”(10mm) in diameter, or any exposed bare core, replace.
Depending on water conditions, an anode can last from one to ten
years. Many localities treat their water which can have significant
effect on the life of your heater. Water conditioning such as over
softening can accelerate the rate at which the anode rod is
consumed. Rapid depletion can leave a heater unprotected
causing a premature failure. As with any water heater, it is good
practice to check the anode annually to see if it needs replacing
(See Figure 11, Item No. 3).
To inspect or change an anode:
• Turn off the water heater.
• Close the cold inlet supply valve.
• Open a hot water tap supplied by the heater.
• Drain the water heater enough to empty the piping system.
• Using a 1 1/16” socket, remove anode and inspect or replace as
required.
• Apply a good grade of pipe dope to the threads of the anode
adapter and screw securely into the tank.
• Refill system with water, check for leaks and restore water
heater to operation.
WARNING
Operating a water heater without an actively
working anode rod will void the warranty.
Tank Flushing
Periodically (monthly) drain approximately 2 gallons (8 liters) or
until water runs clear from the tank through the drain valve. This
will minimize sediment buildup on the tank bottom.
Caution:
WATER WILL BE HOT.
If scale removal is being considered, contact your dealer for
proper procedures. DO NOT USE HYDROCHLORIC ACID (HCL)
based cleaners. Thoroughly flush after any chemical cleaning.
Relief Valve Check
Inspect the relief valve annually to ensure proper operation. This
involves opening the valve to check that it is flowing freely and that
there are no blockages. Warning: WATER WILL BE HOT
and water flow can be forceful. If the valve does not function
properly, it must be replaced. Provide a bucket or drainage for the
expelled water. Lift the lever and let it snap shut. The water should
stop immediately.
In systems where the relief valve discharges periodically, this may
be due to thermal expansion or to a thermostat that is operating at
too high a temperature. In a closed water system, an expansion
tank may be required. Contact your local plumbing inspector. For
a malfunctioning thermostat, contact your gas supplier.
Vent Maintenance
Every 6 months, when inspecting the burner flame, an inspection
of the venting system should be made.
Check these points:
1. Are the draft hood relief openings free of obstruction?
2. Is the flue pipe securely attached?
3. Is the flue pipe cemented into the chimney or are cracks and
loose cement visible?
4. Are the flue gases venting properly?
CORRECT ANY DEFECTS IMMEDIATELY!
Burner Maintenance
Annually inspect the burner and combustion chamber area to
ensure that no debris have fallen on the burner and that no foreign
material has found its way into the combustion chamber. Observe
the flame for proper operation. Sheet metal burners have no
adjustment, so contact your gas supplier if there is a problem.
ALWAYS KEEP THE AREA AROUND THE WATER HEATER
CLEAR OF COMBUSTIBLE MATERIALS. NEVER RESTRICT
THE FLOW OF AIR TO THE WATER HEATER.