RIKON Power Tools 70-300 User Manual

Page 15

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15

Checks & Cracks

Green wood will check and crack. For best results, leave logs in as long lengths as you can handle.

As the material starts to dry, surface cracks will develop on the ends of the log. Cut off two to three

inches and you should find good, sound wood. Also cut the log in half along the pith to avoid having

it in the finished piece. Most checks radiate from the pith. As you turn bowls from green wood, make

sure you maintain a consistent wall thickness throughout the piece. Leaving a piece thick in some

areas and thin in others will cause the wood to dry unevenly and promote checks and cracks.

Distortion

Distortion is a problem associated with turning green wood. It will vary from one type of wood to the

next. Typically, fruitwoods tend to distort more than others. It also varies with the time of year the tree

was cut and how the logs are stored.

Tools for Bowl Turning

The deep fluted bowl gouge is the most essential and versatile tool for most bowl and faceplate style

turning. The bowl gouge is heavier and easier to control than other types of gouges. It also allows

removal of wood much faster and with less vibration than other gouges. Most average sized bowl

work can be accomplished with a 3/8" or 1/2" bowl gouge. A 1/4" bowl gouge is best suited for smaller

bowls and light finishing cuts.

Larger 3/4" and 1" bowl gouges are only used for extremely large pieces. Large domed scrapers can

also be used to help clean up the interior surfaces of bowls. A light touch with the scraper slightly

tilted will eliminate some of the ridges left by a bowl gouge.

To Shape Outside of Bowl

1. Odd shaped burls, crotches and other irregular shaped blanks require special preparation before

mounting in a chuck, or onto a faceplate. Remove the bark, if there is any, from what appears to be

the center of the top of workpiece.

2. Drive spur center into the top of workpiece with a wood mallet.

3. Slip spur center into headstock taper and bring the tailstock, with a live center into position. Lock

tailstock to bed and advance spindle in order to seat the cup center into workpiece, see Figure 19.

Tighten quill lock.

4. Position tool support just below the centerline and about 1/4" from the workpiece. Note: For larger

outboard turning, an optional outboard turning stand is used to place the tool support.

5. Turn workpiece by hand to ensure proper clearance.

6. Start lathe at lowest speed and bring it up to the maximum safe speed for the size of work to be

turned, see Figure 7 on page 10. If the machine starts to vibrate, lower the speed until vibration stops.

7. Rough out the outside of the bowl with the 1/2" deep fluted bowl gouge, holding the tool firmly

against your hip. For best control, use your whole body to move the gouge through the workpiece.

8. As the bowl takes shape, work on the bottom (tailstock end) to accommodate attaching a face

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