Star Water Systems Water Softener - Manual (Page 12)

12
WATER WAS SOFT BUT NOW FEELS HARD
WHAT TO CHECK HOW TO CORRECT
No salt in brine tank Add salt to brine tank and maintain salt level above water level. Manually
initiate the regeneration cycle and allow softener to totally go through all
regeneration cycles.
Electrical service to unit has been
interrupted Make certain that the power cord is plugged into a 115V grounded outlet that
cannot be turned off accidentally by a wall switch or pull chain. Check for blown
fuses. In case of electrical power outages, reset the time of day. Some valves
utilize a battery - see valve instructions for battery replacement.
Has softener valve head been
programmed to regenerate after
installation? See valve programming instructions. Was water properly tested and diagnosed
for correct setting? Have additional people moved in or water usage increased?
Has the by-pass been used and not
connected back into service? Make sure the handle of the bypass valve is in the service position. On a 3-way
bypass position, open the inlet and outlet valves and close the bypass valve.
Salt is bridging in tank Salt in bottom of tank has hardened and is not allowing water/salt mixture
to get to the bottom of salt and consequently over to mineral tank. Do not fill
salt tank completely (3/4 full). Use a stick or broom handle and poke into salt,
making sure it is broken up.
Salt tube going from salt tank to mineral
tank is plugged or insufficient water
flowing into brine tank Put unit into “Brine Rinse” position, make sure salt water flows uninterrupted
from salt tank to mineral tank. Clean or replace brine valve. Clean and unplug
necessary line so water flows uninterrupted.
Brine salt line and connections not
allowing salt solution into mineral tank to
regenerate Visually check tubing for cracks or kinks. Check fittings for proper assembly and
tightness as diagrammed
Brass
Compression
Nut
Brass
Insert
Plastic
Ferrule
Poly
Tubing
IL0707
Injector or injector screen is plugged Put softener in “By-Pass” position and de-pressurize by putting in “Backwash”
position. There are 2 screws on valve neck where salt line tube enters softener.
Remove screws, clean screen and remove chunks of salt, etc.
Line pressure is too low Line pressure must be at least 20 PSI at all times.
Is backwash water flowing freely down
to drain with an air gap and no back
siphoning? Put valve into “Backwash” position and follow water flow down to drain.
Too much iron or tannins have fouled the
bed A water softener is only effective for up to limited amounts of iron and
yellowish colored tannins. Draw water before it goes into and after it flows
through softener. Have both samples tested to see if iron is being removed or if
mineral bed is already coated and fouled.
Salt level setting on valve head is set too
low Verify salt setting and adjust as necessary (consult factory.)
Valve head or timer is not cycling Shut off water supply, de-pressurize tank*, unplug unit and replace valve head
motor.
Has softening mineral been exposed to
freezing? Freezing weather causes the resin to mush and become ineffective. Replace
resin, properly insulate and shield unit from direct elements and freezing
temperatures.
Leak in distributor tube Check for cracks in distributor tube. Check “O” ring and tube inlet in bottom of
valve. Replace if necessary.
*To depressurize unit or backwash, refer to the valve instructions for your particular unit.