Tilton Overhung – Aluminum & Steel (98-1201) - Manual (Page 2)

installation
1. Set the clevis center-to center distance at 2.620 +/- .040". You need
to do this before attaching the master cylinders.
2. Thread the adjusting shaft left or right until the spherical bearing
is near the center of the pivot sleeve. Note that the right end of the
balance bar has a longer threaded section and will stick out farther.
3. If you are using a remote adjuster, remove the jam-nut from the
adjusting shaft. If you are not using a remote adjuster, tighten the
jam-nut against the barrel nut on the longer end (right end) of the
shaft. The round end goes against the barrel nut.
4. Mount the pedal assembly in the car. It is important to mount the
frame rigidly so that it does not move when heavy pedal force is
applied to both pedals. See diagrams 5–8 for mounting hole loca-
tions. The four large through holes are for attaching to the main
support structure while the two tapped holes and the six master
cylinder mounting studs can be used for additional stiffening.
5. (Aluminum Pedals Only) Attach the two foot pads. Different
offsets are available by turning the pad upside down. Choose only
positions that allow connection with all four screws per foot pad.
6. If you are going to bench bleed your master cylinders,
now is the time.
7. Bolt the master cylinders into place with the supplied 5/16"-24
serrated flange nuts. Make sure the master cylinder pushrod has a
jam-nut.
8. Thread the master cylinder pushrods into the clevises equal
amounts (you may need to alter this later) until the pedal foot
pad is in the correct position for the driver (See Diagram 2). A
minimum of .25" thread engagement (6 threads) is recommended.
9. Tighten the master cylinder pushrod jam-nuts against the clevises.
10. Make sure that the chosen pedal position allows a full 1" of stroke
at both master cylinders.
11. Make sure that the adjusted position also allows both master
cylinders to return to their fully relaxed position without binding.
Preload on the master cylinder pushrods can cause the brakes to
lock up when hot when there is no force on the pedal.
12. Attach the hydraulic lines.
13. Attach the reservoirs and bleed as directed in the master cylinder
directions. With a balance bar, always bleed a front and a rear
caliper at the same time to insure total air removal.
14. Apply the brakes and adjust the pushrod length so the adjusting
shaft is parallel to the master cylinder mounting surface (See
Diagram 3). If one pushrod is shortened by one revolution,
lengthening the other by one revolution will maintain the same
pedal position. Do not extend the pushrods to the point where
they preload the master cylinder pistons. After adjusting, tighten
the jam-nuts on both pushrods.
15. You will need to test drive the vehicle to determine if
adjustments need to be made to the brake bias (front/rear brake
force distribution). See Section F for making bias adjustments.
Diagram 3
FIRE
W
ALL
Distance from the firewall must be great enough
that a full stroke of the master cylinder is possible.
PED
AL A
T REST
MASTER CYLINDER
BOTTOMED
11.75"
Diagram 2
3.1
Pedal Depressed
Balance Bar
not at an angle
(Correct)
3.2
Pedal Depressed
Balance Bar
at an angle
(Incorrect)
3.3
Pedal Relaxed
Balance Bar
may or may not
be at an angle