Pypes Performance Exhaust HDR76SK - Manual (Page 2)

Stock system removal (continued):
Loosen the butt clamps securing the back of the h-pipe to the
factory mid-pipes but do not remove at this time. Next loosen the
ball and socket clamps that connect the front of the h-pipe to the
factory downpipes.
Push the exhaust system towards the rear of the car allow-
ing the front of the h-pipe to fall below the factory downpipes.
Release the factory mid-pipe butt clamps that where loosened in
an earlier step by inserting a flat screwdriver under the spring tab
and twisting to release while sliding the clamp over the mid-pipe.
This will allow you to remove the factory h-pipe.
Next remove the factory downpipes by removing the 2 remain-
ing bolts from the manifold exits.
Unbolt the plastic oil change access cover under the front of
the engine. It is made to be loosened and swing down and hang
in place.
It is now time to remove the stock manifold. Removal of the
manifold bolts may be more accessible from either the top or
bottom of the vehicle. Start by loosening the steering u-joint at
the rack and slide upwards to separate the joint from the rack.
You can also accomplish this by loosing the rack mount bolts and
pulling the rack forward to release the shaft.
remove the red protective cap on the starter terminals and
disconnect the wiring from the terminals. Loosen and remove the
3 bolts that retain the starter. Note two bolts are visible and the
third is blind, all three must be removed to get the starter out.
Next lift the front of the engine up as far as it will go, the bell
housing will hit the firewall preventing you from lifting the engine
to high. Remove both the left and right engine pedestal mounts at
this time.
Remove the stock manifolds from the car as well as the O2
sensors marking their location so they can be reinstalled in the
same place.
We have supplied you with sixteen 8mm header bolts and
washers but if you wish the factory stud will work just fine if you
choose to reuse them or a combination of both. If you choose the
bolts now is the time to remove the factory studs from the heads.
Installing your new header system:
Start by using a solvent cleaner to clean the exhaust face
surface of the cylinder heads. Take care not to get excess solvent
or debris of any type in the ports of the cylinder heads. Also treat
the tips of the header bolts with a small amount of anti-seize if
you chose to use them.
Using the supplied gaskets (you may reuse the factory MLS
gaskets if they are in excellent condition) apply a small amount of
O2 sensor safe high temp. RTV sealant to the cylinder head side
of the gasket. This will not only aid in the sealing but also hold the
gasket in place. The use of the factory studs is very help full with
this step.
From under the vehicle slip each header into place being care-
ful not to dislodge the gaskets. Start all the bolts holding each
header in place. Make sure you start each bolt used a few turns
to prevent cross-threading. Tighten all bolts from underneath
that can be reached to approximately 20 ft/lbs. If you chose to
use the factory studs follow the same procedure using the factory
nuts. Note there maybe some bolts that may need to be tighten
from the top you can do those when you finish the under car
procedures.
Re-install the left and right engine pedestal mount and lower
the engine into position on the mounts. Install the steering shaft
and torque the universal joint to 18 ft/lbs.
Re-install the starter and attach the starter cables including
the protective boot. Also swing the oil change cover back in place
and re-attach to the frame of the car.
Using a small amount of anti-seize on the threads of the for-
ward most O2 sensors install them in the same relative locations
as they where removed. Note be careful not to contaminate the
tips of the O2 sensors with anti-seize or any other foreign matter
that would cause the sensors to malfunction.
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Installing your new header system (continued):
Now it is time to install your Pypes X or H-pipe. This is a full 3”
design and if you are reusing the factory 2 -7/8 cat-back system
you will have to adapt it to make it work. For the most power gain
and sound quality we highly recommend our 3” SFM76M Super
System Cat-back system. It is a direct bolt on for our headers
system.
Start by mounting the X/H-pipe with the O2 bungs on a slight
angle toward the ground to the ball flange of the header using the
supplied 3/8” hardware. Do not tighten all the way at this time.
Support the back of the X/H-pipe to make connecting or
adapting your cat-back easier. Now you can connect your cat-
back system and make any alignment adjustment. Once you are
satisfied with the alignment of your system finish tightening the
flanges that connect the headers and the X/H-pipe.
Install the rear most O2 sensors in the same manor as the
fronts with a small amount of anti-seize on the threads. You will
use the two O2 extensions on these sensors. Start by connecting
the extensions to the sensor lead and then to the factory harness,
be careful to rout the extension cable away from any moving part
or heat source.
Connect the front O2 sensor leads to the factory harness. You
will have to carefully stretch the factory harness to make this
connection. You created plenty of slack in the harness when you
removed from the back of the block in an earlier step. Again be
careful routing the harness so it is not in contact with any moving
parts and heat sources.
You can now make one more check of all your work under the
car before lowering it and moving under the hood.
Now that the under car is completed start by tightening any
header bolt you could not reach from under the car.
Next re-install the nuts on engine mount as well as the battery
and battery tray if you removed it.
Attach the battery cables and tighten staring with the positive
cable first.
install the intake hose to the throttle body and tighten by reus-
ing the factory clamp.
Final checks:
Check all work for completeness, bolts tight, connectors con-
nected, lines replaces and clamped ECT. Check that no wires or
lines are close to the headers where heat damage could occur or
near moving parts. Check for misplaced tools and rags as well as
fluid leaks.
Once you are satisfied with all your checks you can now start
your car. Listen for any exhaust leaks. Check around each con-
nection for leaks. If leaks are found make sure that the connec-
tions and gaskets are installed properly and the joint or clamp is
tightened properly.
Note in some instances you may experience a check engine
light. We have found some models to record slow heat response
or temperature errors which in turn set off the check engine light.
This has no adverse effect on the performance or operation of
the engine. There are several commercially available tuners and
specialty tuning shops that can provide you with diagnostics and
advanced tuning capabilities to turn off the light and maximize the
performance of your new header system.
As a last maintenance item retighten all bolts and connec-
tions as necessary after the system has gone through several
heat cycles until they take a set. Periodic checking will add to the
longevity of your system.
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