State GS6 75 URRBS - Manual (Page 16)

16
CHECKLIST
Before contacting your dealer, check the water heater to see if the apparent
malfunction is caused by some external fault. Consulting this checklist
may eliminate the need for a repair call and restore hot water service.
NOT ENOUGH OR NO HOT WATER
1. Look for leaking or open hot water faucets. Check for excessive
usage.
2. Your gas company can check the gas input to the heater to see that
it is correct. An underfi red heater will not produce hot water at its
normal recovery rate.
3. If the heater was installed when incoming water temperatures were
warm, colder incoming temperatures will create the effect of less
hot water.
4. The thermostat water temperature adjusting dial may be set too low.
5. If you cannot determine the cause of the problems, contact your
dealer.
WATER TEMPERATURE IS TOO HOT
1. The thermostat water temperature adjusting dial may be set too high.
2. If lowering control setting does not reduce the water temperature
contact your dealer.
GAS SMELL AT THE HEATER
1. Close the main shutoff valve in the gas supply pipe near the heater,
see Figure 5 on page 9.
2. Call your gas company.
WATER LEAKAGE IS SUSPECTED
1. Check to see if the heater drain valve is tightly closed.
2. The apparent leakage might be condensation. In warm or humid
locations, condensation can accumulate and run from within the
heater or its piping.
• When a water heater is fi rst installed and fi lled, the bottom of the
tank might condense water. The water accumulation, if excessive,
can drip into the fl oor shield. Also, during normal operation there
may be occasions when large quantities of water are drawn,
chilling the tank bottom. This too can result in condensation.
• Condensation, appearing in the vent pipe (water dripping from
draft diverter) during heater operation is evidence of poor vent
action. Possible causes are too long a vent pipe or improper
chimney operation.
3. If the leakage is from the temperature and pressure relief valve or
its discharge pipe, it may represent a normal condition. However,
see RELIEF VALVE section on page 7. DO NOT PLUG THE
TEMPERATURE AND PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE. Also, the
leakage could be due to unusually high water pressures or
temperatures in the system, or to a faulty relief valve. Your dealer
or a qualifi ed service technician should be called to determine the
cause of the problem and to correct it.
4. If you cannot identify or correct the source of water leakage:
• Close the main shutoff valve in the gas supply pipe at the heater.
See Figure 5, page 9.
• Close the valve which feeds water to the cold water inlet at the
top of the heater.
• Contact your dealer.
WATER HEATER MAKES SOUNDS
1. Occasional excessive condensation, as explained under LEAKAGE,
can cause a sizzling sound as the moisture is vaporized by the gas
fl ame. This is a normal sound and may be disregarded.
2. Sediment and water scale accumulations may cause rumbling
noises. See MAINTENANCE or contact your dealer for details of
fl ushing the heater.
3. If you cannot identify or remedy the condition, contact your dealer.
CONDENSATION
Water vapor can condense on the cooler surfaces of the tank forming
droplets, these drip into the fi re or run out on the fl oor. This is common at
the time of startup after installation, during periods of time when incoming
water is very cold, or the heater may be undersized for the requirements.
Droplets from the bottom of the fl ue may be due to corrosive combustion
products or improper vent. Check with your dealer for more information.
ANODE ROD INSPECTION
Each water heater contains at least one anode rod, which will slowly
deplete (due to electrolysis) prolonging the life of the water heater
by protecting the glass-lined tank from corrosion. Adverse water
quality, hotter water temperatures, high hot water useage, and water
softening methods can increase the rate of anode rod depletion . Once
the anode rod is depleted, the tank will start to corrode, eventually
developing a leak.
Certain water conditions will cause a reaction between the anode
rod and the water. The most common complaint associated with the
anode rod is a "rotten egg smell" produced from the presence of
hydrogen sulfi de gas dissolved in the water. IMPORTANT: Do not
remove this rod permanently as it will void any warranties. The parts
list includes a special anode rodthat can be ordered if water odor or
discoloration occurs. NOTE: This rod may reduce but not eliminate
water odor problems.
Artifi cially softened water is exceedingly corrosive because the
process substitutes sodium ions for magnesium and calcium ions. The
use of a water softener may decrease the life of the water heater tank.
The anode rod should be inspected after a maximum of three years
and annually thereafter until the condition of the anode rod dictates its
replacement. NOTE: Artifi cially softened water requires the anode rod
to be inspected annually.
The following are typical (but not all) signs of a depleted anode rod:
*
The majority of the rods diameter is less than 3/8"
* Signifi cant sections of the support wire (approx. 1/3 or more of
the anode rods length) are visible.
If the anode rod shows signs of either or both it should be replaced.
NOTE: Whether re-installing or replacing the anode rod, check for any
leaks immediately, correct if found.
In replacing the anode:
1.
Turn off gas supply to the water heater.
2. Shut off the water supply and open a nearby hot water faucet to
depressurize the water tank.
3. Drain approximately 5 gallons of water from the tank (Refer to
"Draining and Flushing" for proper procedures). Close drain
valve.
4. Reomve old anode rod.
5. Use Tefl on® tape or approved pipe sealant on threads and install
new anode rod.
6. Turn on water supply and open nearby hot water faucet to purge
air from water system. Check for any leaks and immediately
correct any if found.