State SPX 50 DHPT - Manual (Page 14)

14
ANODE ROD INSPECTION
Each water heater contains at least one anode rod, which
will slowly deplete (due to electrolysis) prolonging the life
of the water heater by protecting the glass lined tank from
corrosion. Adverse water quality, hotter water tempera-
tures, high hot water usage, hydronic heating devices and
water softening methods can increase the rate of anode
rod depletion. Once the anode rod is depleted, the tank
will start to corrode, eventually developing a leak.
Certain water conditions will cause a reaction between the
anode rod and the water. The most common complaint
associated with the anode rod is a "rotten egg smell" pro-
duced from the presence of hydrogen sulfide gas dissolved
in the water. IMPORTANT: Do not remove the anode rod
permanently as it will void any warranties. A special anode
rod may be available if water odor or discoloration occurs.
NOTE: This anode rod may reduce but not eliminate water
odor problems. The water supply system may require spe-
cial filtration equipment from a water conditioning company
to sucessfully eliminate all water odor problems.
Artificially softened water is exceedingly corrosive because
the process substitutes sodium ions for magnesium and
calcium ions. The use of a water softener may decrease
the life of the water heater tank.
The anode rod should be inspected after a maximun of
three years and annually thereafter until the condition of
the anode rod dictates its replacement. NOTE: Atrificially
softened water requires the anode rod to be inspected
annually.
The following are typical (but not all) signs of a depleted
anode rod (Figure 13):
•
The majority of the diameter is less than 3/8".
• Significant sections of the support wire (approx, 1/3 or
more of the anode rod's length) are visible.
If the anode rod shows signs of either or both it should be
replaced.
NOTE: Whether re-installing or replac-
ing the anode rod, check for any leaks
and immediately correct if found.
In replacing the anode:
1. Turn off power to the water heater.
2. Shut off the water supply and open
a nearby hot water faucet to depres-
surize the water tank.
3. Drain approximately 5 gallons
of water from the tank. (Refer to
"Draining and Flushing" for proper
procedures). Close drain valve.
4. Remove old anode rod.
5. Use
Teflon
®
tape or approved pipe
sealant on threads and install new
anode rod.
6. Turn on water supply and open a nearby hot water
faucet to purge air from water system. Check for any
leaks and immediately correct any if found.
7. Restart the water heater as directed in this manual.
See the repair part illustration for anode rod location.
Do not remove the anode leaving the tank unprotected.
By doing so, all warranty on the water heater tank is
voided.
"AIR" IN HOT WATER FAUCETS
HYDROGEN GAS: Hydrogen gas can be produced in
a hot water system that has not been used for a long
period of time (generally two weeks or more). Hydrogen
gas is extremely fl ammable and explosive. To prevent the
possibility of injury under these conditions, we recommend
the hot water faucet, located farthest away, be opened for
several minutes before any electrical appliances which
are connected to the hot water system are used (such
as a dishwasher or washing machine). If hydrogen gas is
present, there will probably be an unusual sound similar
to air escaping through the pipe as the hot water faucet is
opened. There must be no smoking or open fl ame near the
faucet at the time it is open.
HIGH WATER TEMPERATURE SHUT OFF SYSTEM
A non-adjustable high temperature limit control operates
before steam temperatures are reached. The high limit is in
the same area as the upper thermostat and must be reset
manually when it operates. BECAUSE THE HIGH LIMIT
OPERATES ONLY WHEN ABNORMALLY HIGH WATER
TEMPERATURES ARE PRESENT, IT IS IMPORTANT
THAT A QUALIFIED SERVICE AGENT BE CONTACTED
TO DETERMINE THE REASON FOR OPERATION
BEFORE RESETTING.
• Turn off the heater electrical supply. Do not attempt to
reset thermostat with power on.
• Remove the screw securing the outer door and remove
door.
• Fold up the insulation to expose the reset button.
• Reset the high limit by pushing the red button marked
"reset".
• Replace the insulation so that it completely covers the
thermostat and element.
• Replace the outer door.
• Turn "ON" electric power to the water heater.
Figure 13:
tInspection and replacement of anode rod recommended
tAvoid water heater damage