Electra Bicycle - Manual (Page 9)

12 13
seat tube
 make sure the saddle is straight fore and aft
 re-tighten the seat post clamp to the
recommended torque (Appendix D or the
manufacturer’s instructions).
Once the saddle is at the correct height, make
sure that the seat post does not project from the
frame beyond its “Minimum Insertion” or “Maximum
Extension” mark (fig. 4).
NOTE: Some bicycles have a sight hole in the seat
tube, the purpose of which is to make it easy to see
whether the seat post is inserted in the seat tube far
enough to be safe. If your bicycle has such a sight
hole, use it instead of the “Minimum Insertion” or
“Maximum Extension” mark to make sure the seat
post is inserted in the seat tube far enough to be
visible through the sight hole.
If your bike has an interrupted seat tube, as is
the case on some suspension bikes, you must also
make sure that the seat post is far enough into the
frame so that you can touch it through the bottom of
the interrupted seat tube with the tip of your finger
without inserting your finger beyond its first knuckle.
Also see NOTE above and fig . 5 ).
WARNING: If your seat post is not inserted in the seat tube as
described in B.1 above, the seat post may break, which could cause
you to lose control and fall.
2. Front and back adjustment. The saddle can be adjusted forward or back to
help you get the optimal position on the bike. Ask your dealer to set the saddle for
your optimal riding position and to show you how to make this adjustment. If you
choose to make your own front and back adjustment, make sure that the clamp
mechanism is clamping on the straight part of the saddle rails and is not touching
the curved part of the rails, and that you are using the recommended torque on
the clamping fastener(s) (Appendix D or the manufacturer’s instructions).
3. Saddle angle adjustment. Most people prefer a horizontal saddle; but some
riders like the saddle nose angled up or down just a little. Your dealer can adjust
saddle angle or teach you how to do it. If you choose to make your own saddle
angle adjustment and you have a single bolt saddle clamp on your seat post, it
is critical that you loosen the clamp bolt sufficiently to allow any serrations on the
mechanism to disengage before changing the saddle’s angle, and then that the
serrations fully re-engage before you tighten the clamp bolt to the recommended
torque (Appendix D or the manufacturer’s instructions).
WARNING: When making saddle angle adjustments with a single bolt
saddle clamp, always check to make sure that the serrations on the
mating surfaces of the clamp are not worn. Worn serrations on the
1. Diamond frame bicycles
Standover height is the basic element
of bike fit (see ). It is the distance from the
ground to the top of the bicycle’s frame
at that point where your crotch is when
straddling the bike. To check for correct
standover height, straddle the bike while
wearing the kind of shoes in which you’ll
be riding, and bounce vigorously on your
heels. If your crotch touches the frame,
the bike is too big for you. Don’t even
ride the bike around the block. A bike
which you ride only on paved surfaces
and never take off-road should give you
a minimum standover height clearance of two inches (5 cm). A bike that you’ll
ride on unpaved surfaces should give you a minimum of three inches (7.5 cm) of
standover height clearance. And a bike that you’ll use off road should give you
four inches (10 cm) or more of clearance.
2. Step-through frame bicycles
Standover height does not apply to bicycles with step-through frames. Instead,
the limiting dimension is determined by saddle height range. You must be able to
adjust your saddle position as described in B without exceeding the limits set by
the height of the top of the seat tube and the ”Minimum Insertion” or “Maximum
Extension” mark on the seat post.
B. Saddle position
Correct saddle adjustment is an important factor in getting the most
performance and comfort from your bicycle. If the saddle position is not
comfortable for you, see your dealer.
The saddle can be adjusted in three directions:
1. Up and down adjustment. To check for correct saddle height (fig. 3):
• sit on the saddle;
• place one heel on a pedal;
• rotate the crank until the pedal with your heel on it is in the down position and
the crank arm is parallel to the seat tube.
If your leg is not completely straight,
your saddle height needs to be adjusted.
If your hips must rock for the heel to reach
the pedal, the saddle is too high. If your leg
is bent at the knee with your heel on the
pedal, the saddle is too low.
Ask your dealer to set the saddle for
your optimal riding position and to show
you how to make this adjustment. If you
choose to make your own saddle height
adjustment:
 loosen the seat post clamp
 raise or lower the seat post in the