Mountain Off Road BLTJ97 - Manual (Page 2)

1.
Remove the 4 bolts holding the fan shroud to the radiator.
2.
Remove the 4 nuts that hold the fan to the water pump pulley.
3.
Remove the shroud and fan.
4.
Inside the Jeep on the drivers side, pull the carpet away from the floor pan to expose the 4 bolts that
hold the transfer case shift linkage bracket. (This bracket is on the under side of the body and it's pur-
pose is to locate the bellcrank for the linkage.) Remove the 4 bolts and remove the bracket from the un-
der side.
5.
Loosen all 11 body mount bolts. Remove the one under the grille. Remove 5 bolts on the driver’s side.
(Hint, The hidden mount bolts are between the fuel tank and the upper rear shock mount!).
6. Place a stout piece of wood on a floor jack and place the jack between body mount 3 and 4 on the chan-
nel portion of the body. Jack up the body just enough to install the 1 inch pucks on top of the factory steel
washers/rubber insulators. Place the M.O.R.E.™ pucks in locations 2,3,4,5,6. It is recommended that
you use a dab of lock-tight on the new longer bolts. Start the new longer bolts in locations 2,3,4,5,6. Do
not tighten at this time. See Figure 1 for locations of body mounts.
6A.
If you are replacing the body mounts with our Urethane mounts then the position for these are :
Positions :1,5, and 6 : MO2288 , M02429 , S10125 See Figure 1
Positions : 2,3, and 4 : M02348 , MO2350 , S10125 See Figure 1
7.
Repeat this procedure on the passenger side of the body.
8 . Install the last puck under the grille (location 1) and start the longer bolt.
9.
Remove the factory rubber grille supports and replace them with the supplied 1” taller urethane grille
supports. It is recommended to apply a lubricant to the urethane to help with the install.
10. Now, tighten the new longer body mount bolts. Use your judgment as to how tight to torque the bolts. Do
not "crush" the rubber insulators or leave the bolts too loose!
11.
Find the 4 holes in the mounting flange on the radiator where the shroud mounted. Measure 1 inch below
the factory holes and center punch a mark. Do this as accurately as possible. (The passenger side lower
hole will end up in a large existing hole and can not be drilled. (This is what the large fender washer is
for.)
12.
Drill the center punched marks with a 1/4" drill bit. You may find it easier to use a angle-head drill for this
job, however a standard drill can be used.
13.
Since the radiator stays in the stock location, and its bolted to the body, it moves up 1 inch with the body
lift. The fan shroud must line up with the fan, and it is connected to the engine. The engine stays in the
stock location. For the shroud to fit in the new holes you just drilled, the shroud needs to be trimmed
slightly to clear the lower radiator hose. You can use a round file, Dremmel® Tool (hi-speed grinder), or
what ever you have to perform this job. The shroud is made out of a plastic material that cuts, sands and
forms easily, so be careful when grinding or filing. Make sure that the shroud doesn't touch the hose
when bolted in place.
14.
Install the fan and shroud. Tighten the nuts that hold the fan to the pulley/water pump. Install the factory
bolts through the shroud and into the holes you drilled in the mounting flange. Use the CrimpLoc nuts
provided. Do not over tighten the nuts/bolts, just a bit past snug will do the trick. The large fender
washer is for the lower hole on the passenger side. Place it on the steel side of the mounting flange so
the CrimpLoc nut has a surface to grab against.
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