Mountain Off Road SR104 - Manual (Page 3)

STEP BY STEP INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS:
STEP 1:
Remove the spring pivot hangers from the frame rails (behind the axle). This can be done with a
hand grinder and cut-off wheel, torch or saw-zall. SEE FIGURES 1A, 1B, & 1C. Be very careful and do not cut into
the frame. Just grind the welds. A chisel and hammer comes in handy for knocking loose the brackets. After the
stock brackets are removed from the frame, grind the welds flush and paint the bare frame with some black paint.
STEP 2:
Find items “A” and install the bushings and sleeves that you removed from the stock shackle hang-
ers. SEE FIGURE 2. With a mallet, tap items “A” on the frame where you just removed the stock spring pivot hang-
ers. The tab on the under side (for the locking bolt item “B”) faces forward. Depending on your springs you may be
able to now set the shackle angle at 60 degrees with the springs hanging ( No Weight ) and everything will be fine,
See Figure 3 . We suggest that you do this as a starting point but once the hanger has been clamped to the frame
at the 60 degree angle you then apply weight to the springs. The shackle angle should be straight up and down 90
degrees with the weight on the springs, see figure 4 , If it is not 90 degrees than move the bracket “A” forward or
back until the correct angle is achieved.
STEP 3:
Find the exact center of the slotted holes, and punch a mark. SEE FIGURE 5 & 6. This must be
done as accurately as possible, in the inside and outside of the frame rails, drivers and passenger side. Center
punch the lower “lock mounting bolt” hole at this time as well. SEE FIGURE 7. Remove items “A” from the frame.
With a 1/8” drill bit in a angle head drill, bore a pilot hole through the center punched marks, all locations. SEE FIG-
URES 8 & 9. Now, with a 1/2” bit in a power drill, enlarge the pilot holes ON THE SIDES OF THE FRAME ONLY to
1/2”. Do not drill the underside lock mounting bolt holes at this time!!! Drill from the outside toward the inside using
the inside pilot hole to keep the bit lined up. Enlarge the OUTSIDE HOLES ONLY to 3/4”. SEE FIGURE 10.
Chamfer any burrs that maybe present.
STEP 4:
Now, enlarge the underside “lock mounting bolt” holes to 21/64”. Tap these drilled holes with a 3/8”
x 24 (fine thread) tap. Use cutting oil and tap slowly and carefully. Make sure the tap is straight and true when going
up through the hole. SEE FIGURE 11
STEP 5:
Insert items “D” into the 3/4” holes you just drilled. SEE FIGURE 12. Be care full not to drop them
into the boxed frame! They should press in with a slight amount of pressure.
STEP 6:
Re-install items “A” on the frame over items “D”. Grab all four items “E” and install one item “G”
over each, and install “E” through item “A” and “D”. Then in the inside of the frame install another item “G” over the
threads of item “E” and one item “F” on each. Re-check the shackle angle, and if correct, tighten items “E” & “F” to
55 Lb. Ft. torque.
STEP 7:
Install items “C” over items “B” and thread items “B” into the tapped holes. Tighten them to 10 Lb.
Ft. torque. Reinstall the leaf springs. Switch the springs from end to end (the large eye or pivot end now installs up
front in the S.R.S.™ bracket). Install your shackles to your springs and to items “A”. SEE FIGURE 13. Use
thread locking compound on the threads or, new locking nuts on your bolts. Do not tighten at this time. Remove
the jack stands. Jump up and down several times on the front bumper to “seat” the springs. Tighten your stock
shackle bolts to 10 Lb. Ft. torque.
STEP 8:
Test drive the Jeep® . Chances are the steering wheel may not be centered. You can adjust the
drag link to center it. Installing this shackle reversal system will not affect the alignment (camber or toe-in), so hav-
ing the Jeep® aligned is not necessary. The caster will increase slightly, however it is a non-tire wearing angle.
Go back and check all of your work and make sure everything is done properly. Check the brake lines and make
sure that they are not being stretched to far.
SR104 PAGE 3 of 6