INCRA Jig - Manual (Page 11)

11
Corner Post Dovetail
Corner Post Dovetails
The Corner Post Dovetail is a beautiful and deceptively simple variation on
the half blind technique that you have just learned. If you have mastered
the half blind, then you have already just about mastered the Corner Post.
In fact, in the final series of cuts, you will join four boards together using the
exact same steps used to produce a half blind. If you have not made a half
blind joint yet, you should go back to Page 9 to review that section before
continuing. Now, let’s take a step-
by-step look at this beautiful
Corner Post joint.
Fig. 41
All (5) pieces are
equal in width and
thickness.
Stock requirements
(2) short pieces
(2) long pieces
The bottom piece is 8” long and is
a contrasting color
Stock requirements
For this decorative joint, you’ll need the same four pieces required for any
half blind joint (two short pieces and two long pieces) plus a piece of
contrasting color stock about 8” long to make the corner post. All should be
the same thickness and width, Fig. 41. Since this joint is based on half
blind techniques, the stock thickness must be greater than your depth of cut.
Corner post dovetails
Make the long sides for corner posts
After centering (page 8), set the fence to a scoring pass position and
tighten the clamping knob. Clamp the two long boards, along with a
backing board to the Right Angle Fixture. Starting with a scoring cut,
advance to the first visible mark on the template in one or two passes.
The first visible mark determines which cut lines to use on the template
for the remainder of the cuts. If the first mark is a “B” cut for example,
simply move the INCRA Jig from one “B” cut to the next “B” cut until you
have cut across the full width of your material. After completing the
cuts, flip the boards end for end and repeat the cuts, Fig. 42.
Make the corner posts
To make the corner posts, set the INCRA Jig to the first mark on the
template that exposes the cutter in front of the fence, then tighten the
clamping knob. If you used a “B” cut on the previous series of cuts,
then the corner post series will be the “A” cuts and visa versa. Using a
rubber soled push block, cut a groove through the entire length of the
corner post piece. Now move the fence from one mark to the next to
cut the grooves across the full width of the corner post piece, Fig. 43.
At your table saw, use a miter gauge with a wooden auxiliary fence to
crosscut the corner post stock. Fig 44. You’ll need four corner post
pieces per box. Each piece should be about 1/16” longer than the
thickness of your box side material to allow for flush belt sanding later
on.
Glue the corner posts to the side pieces
Use a brush to apply glue to two of the corner post pieces, then apply
glue to both ends of the mating box side. Slide the corner post pieces
onto each end of the box side and center so that the corner post
overhangs each face of the larger piece slightly. We’ll sand them flush
later. Place scrap wood clamping
pads at each end and clamp. Wipe
off excess glue squeeze out and set
aside. Repeat the glue-up
procedure for the remaining pieces
and set aside to dry for about 30
minutes, Fig 45. Unclamp and belt
sand the corner post sections flush
with the faces of the two boards.
Fig. 43
Rout corner post blank
Fig. 44 Cross cut corner post pieces
Rout grooves along full length of blank
Clamp two long sides with backing
board to Right Angle Fixture
Fig. 42 Cut long sides
Fig. 45
Glue corner
post pieces