Power Stop EVOLUTION - Manual (Page 2)

STEP SEVEN: With the caliper out of the way, remove the rotor. Sometimes the rotor rust will make it bind and
you will need to use a mallet to loosen it. Tap both the front and back side alternating left and right, top and
bottom of the rotor. The rotor thickness should be measured and compared to the minimum discard thickness
that is etched on the rotor. If the thickness is less than this minimum, then the rotor should be replaced.
STEP EIGHT: The next step is to move the piston back inside the caliper. The piston has extended as the pad
material wears. With new thicker pads, you must return the piston back inside the caliper body to give the
thicker pads room for installation. First crack open the bleeder screw on the caliper to allow brake fluid to be
relieved. Place a container under the caliper to collect the fluid. Get a large C-clamp, place the used brake pad
over the face of the piston to protect the surface from marring, and work it back that way. As you turn the
handle on the clamp, it will increase pressure on the piston, until it becomes flush with the surrounding metal.
Brake fluid will be released through the bleeder. Then loosen and remove the C-clamp. Close the bleeder screw
for now. If you cannot open the bleeder screw, then push the C-clamp in slowly to prevent unsafe back pressure
and damage to the ABS modulator, brake valving or master cylinder. It may be necessary to drain some fluid
from the master cylinder reservoir.
NOTE: many rear brakes pistons cannot be retracted with a C-clamp as they screw in and out. This type of
rear brake piston will have two recessed notches where you can use a set of needle nose pliers to retract the
piston.
STEP NINE: Check and replace all hardware as needed. Improper hardware can lead to noise or poor brake
pad performance. Clean the caliper rails or hardware sldes where the pads make contact. Clean the hub mating
surface with a wire brush. Rust or debris on the hub can cause rotor runout and lead to wheel vibration.
STEP TEN: Resurface the rotor or replace the rotor. Most auto retailer stores provide rotor resurfacing. After
machining, use a 120 grit sandpaper on the rotor in a light circular motion to give a non-directional finish. Clean
the rotor with mild soap and wipe clean with a lint-free cloth. Do not use petroleum based cleaners.
STEP ELEVEN: Install the new rotor and remount the caliper bracket (not the piston part) to the spindle knuck-
le arm. Use brake grease to lubricate the edge of the brake pad plate where it touches the caliper. Do not put
grease on the friction material. The lubricant goes between the plate and the piston or caliper back. Don’t over-
look this. If you don’t do it, you may get brake noise when you apply the brakes.
NOTE: When you install new rotors, it is recommended that you check rotor runout. Rotor runout can cause
brake pulsation. First tighten the stud nuts to the manufacturer specification using spacers as required. Mount
a dial indicator and rotate the rotor while measuring the runout. Runout should be less than +/-.001 inch. If
runout exceeds this then mark the high spot, remove the rotor and index it two studs and check to see if the
high spot moved. Make sure that the hub and rotor mounting surface is clean.
STEP TWELVE: With the fixed part of the caliper bolted to the spindle. Reinstall the brake pads in the caliper
slide, and make sure that they are pressed back to leave clearance for the rotor to slide between them. Slide
the caliper over the rotor and line up the bolt holes. Bolt the piston part of the caliper to the caliper bracket.
Note:sometimes the rubber boot will extend the bolt and cause interference during installation. Just push the
rubber boot back to allow the caliper to slide over the rotor.
STEP THIRTEEN: Bleed the brakes to remove air from the brake line. First make sure the brake fluid is full to the
top. Have a buddy press down slowly on the pedal as you monitor the bleeder screw. When you see a constant
stream of fluid, close the bleeder screw. It usually takes three pumps of the pedal to clear the air out of the line.
Check the master cylinder reservoir and replace brake fluid to the MAX line. Do not overfill the reservoir. Pump
the brakes several times to seat the brake pads to the rotor and check the reservoir one more time.
STEP FOURTEEN: Replace the wheel and bolts. Drop the car to the ground to finish tightening the bolts to the
manufacturer’s specified bolt torque. Alternate tightening sequence by going to the opposite side of the hub.
A torque gun is not recommended.
IMPORTANT: BREAK IN NEW FRICTION USING THE PAD BEDDING PROCEDURE AS FOLLOWS. PROPER PAD BED-
DING CAN PREVENT ROTOR WARPING.
The break in procedure is critical! If you do not break in the pad properly, it can result in brake pedal pulsation
and thermal shock to the rotor causing stress cracks. Break in the pads as follows: 5 moderate to aggressive
stops at 40 mph to 5 mph without letting the brakes cool and do not come to a complete stop. Then do 5 mod-
erate stops at 25 mph to 5 mph and let the rotors cool after each brake application. You should expect to smell
some resin as the brakes get hot.
For the first 100 miles, avoid towing or hauling loads while the pad completes the resin cure.
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