Top Flite TOPA0101 - Manual (Page 28)

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2. Cut off the metal elevator horn so only two
1/16" holes remain. Check the holes in the horn
and remove any sharp edges or burrs that may
damage the clevis pin. Prepare the elevator
pushrod by screwing a nylon clevis onto a .074 x
34"
threaded pushrod wire until the threads
protrude slightly into the clevis opening. Slide a
1/4" long piece of medium silicone fuel tubing
down the pushrod to act as a safety sleeve on the
elevator clevis. Slide 5/16" pieces of inner pushrod
tube onto the wire, spacing them about 3" apart.
Hook the nylon clevis to the outside hole on the
elevator control horn and slide the safety sleeve
over the clevis.
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3. Securely glue the die-cut 1/8" plywood stab
base (SB) in flush with the two stab base supports.
Be sure the rudder torque rod is in its proper
upright position.
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4. Position the stab in place on the stab base
and stab base supports. Check the stab alignment
with the wing. If any slant is detected, apply
masking tape to the low side of the stab supports
and block sand the other side of the base until the
stab will sit level.
CAUTION: Do not change the stab incidence
which is set by the stab base supports.
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5. Check the stab alignment visually and with a
string from the top center of F-2 to the stab tips.
Epoxy the stab in place – check the final alignment
before the epoxy cures.
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6. When the stab epoxy has cured, check the fit
and alignment of the fin and adjust if necessary (a
90 deg. triangle placed on the stab will help you
detect any fin tilt). Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the
fin in place.
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7. Taper the fuse side sheeting between F-11
and F-12 as shown on the fuse side view. Look at
the photos and the plan, and note where leftover
3/16" balsa filler is glued on.
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8. Angle the front edge of the 3/8" x 2-1/2" x 7-
3/4" lower aft fuse block . Glue the block to the
bottom of the fuse. Use a razor plane and a bar
sander to shape the block.
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