Top Flite J-3 Piper Cub - Manual (Page 7)

RUDDER
1. Glue and pin in place die-cut parts R-2, R-3 and the 1/4" x
1/2" outline stock. As with the fin, note the piece of 1/4"
sq. stock used to complete the outline, just above the top of
the fin. Glue the 3/32" x 1/4" "ribs" in place.
2. When the fin and rudder assemblies are dry, remove them
from the work surface. Inspect and clean-up the joints. Like
the stabilizer and elevator assemblies, install the gussets,
centered between the outside surfaces.
Use a sanding block to sand the tail surfaces to the final outline
shape shown on the plans. Sand the surfaces to remove any high
spots. Finally, sand the final rounded cross-section shapes of each
surface. Note that the R-1 piece on the front of the fin must
blend into the 3/16" diameter dowel used for the "spine" stringer
on the fuselage. Each surface should now be slotted for hinges
and set aside for covering and assembly.
FUSELAGE CONSTRUCTION SEQUENCE
Carefully position and tape plan sheets No.'s 1 and 2 together,
using the dashed lines. The two fuselage sides will be constructed
one over the other to assure uniformity. These two sides are
identical except that the right side will have the lower access door
built into it. The instructions take this into consideration. To
further insure uniformity we advise that two each of brace, up-
right and longeron be cut at the same time, when building the
first side. Cover plan with Monokote backing or Saran Wrap
before starting.
1. Start the right side by pinning and glueing the two-piece 1/4"
square upper balsa longeron in place. The forward piece is
from the front of the firewall to F-11 position. The rear
piece is from F-11 to rudder hinge line.
2. Pin and glue the three piece 1/4" square lower longeron in
place. The forward piece is from the front of the firewall to
the center of front landing gear block. The center piece from
the center of front L.G. block to center of rear L.G. block.
The rear piece runs from the center of the rear L.G. block
back to the rudder hinge line.
3. Using the 1/4" square and 1/8" x 1/4" balsa provided,
accurately cut, glue and pin all uprights in place. Note that
the front, bottom and rear 1/4" square door outline should
not be glued to the 1/4" square door frame. Maintain a
slight gap all the way around the frame as the door will be
cut free later. Also note that the forward-most nose upright
is recessed back 1/4" to allow the firewall to key in place.
With the 1/4" x 3" x 12" balsa provided, measure, cut and
glue the fillers into the front of the fuselage.
4. Allow to dry and remove pins. With a sanding block, lightly
smooth the frame. Cover frame with Monokote backing or
Saran Wrap and repeat steps 1, 2 and 3 — deleting the door
outline, building the left frame directly over the right one.
5. When dry remove both frames from the work surfaces. Inspect
and clean-up the joints. We suggest double-glueing these
joints. Lay the sides back over the plans and with a soft
pencil, mark the location of formers F-2, F-10 (mark the
location of this former on the INSIDE of each frame), F-11,
F-4, F-5, F-6, F-7, F-8 and F-9. Last, mark the location of
the 1/8" x 1/4" tank shelf supports at the nose.
6. Sand a shallow joining taper into the inside of each fuselage
at the tailpost. Remember the right fuselage side has the door.
This taper should result in the tailpost of each frame measur-
ing 1/8" in width, 1/4" when held together.
7. With the 1/8" balsa sheet provided, cut four 17-3/4" lengths.
Using a flat surface, "butt-glue" two pieces together to form
a rough fuselage side, which should then measure 1/8" x 6" x
17-3/4". Repeat this step with the remaining two pieces.
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