HOT GRIPS 101 (SNOE) - Manual (Page 2)

mounted from the switch, using any length wires you need. Mount it securely on a metal area where there will be air
moving around the resistor to dissipate heat. It will warm up during "low heat" operation. It is not in use during "off" or
"high". The resistor should be secured with preferably
nylon wire-ties. Wire ties are typically made of Nylon and can
take the heat. Squeezing out a "pad" of silicone sealant under the resistor is helpful in cushioning it against vibration
and shock. Resistor may be located any distance from the switch. Use black wire left over from the grip's installation
to connect and do not leave the resistor dangling by the wires or they'll fail.
WIRING: There is no polarity to the wires on each grip, i.e. no positive or nega tive.
Follow the wiring diagram below. A good ground is important so be sure to scrape the paint off the "ground connec-
tion" as even a layer of paint will create a problem. Ground should be to the engine or frame, not the handlebars,
since some of them are rubber mounted and may reduce the good ground connection. Some machines use a wire
or "common-wire ground" instead of "frame-ground". Check with your snowmobile dealer. The grips must be wired
in "series", with one grip being connected to the other. One grip's remaining wire connects to ground, and the
other
to the switch.
POLARIS: Some Polaris snowmobiles must be wired using the machine's AC common wire to complete the circuit,
rather than a chassis "ground". Always follow our instructions when doing the wiring, and don't use the Polaris wires
that are built into the machine unless you are certain which ones to use (don't call us on this). Warning: The original
equipment Polaris heating devices are wired in "parallel", unlike the Hot Grips® which are wired in "series" . If in
doubt, contact your Polaris dealer's service department.
SKI-DOO: Some Ski-Doo snowmobiles don't use a "chassis-ground" for the grips. Instead, locate a yellow wire and
a yellow with black-stripe wire at the sled's Regulator or Regulator-Rectifier. Use the yellow wire as your power posi-
tive wire, and the yellow with black-stripe as your 'ground-substitute' wire. Do not ground to chassis or engine except
on older Ski-Doo's that do not have the yellow and yellow with black-stripe wires. Improper wiring will result in the
Hot Grips® not working and/or dim lights. If in doubt contact your Ski-Doo dealer's service manager.
Power Source: Use the vehicle's accessory terminal if available, one that will not have voltage when the engine is
off. (Otherwise your battery will be drained if the grips were left on, just as if you left your headlight on.) If your
electrical system uses fuses for protection, then use a 4 amp fuse (not included). On non-battery systems, generally
if they don't use fuses in the system for other electrical uses, then a fuse isn't necessary for the Hot Grips®. Some
sled's do not have enough electrical power to run both the headlights and heated grips. Ask your dealer's service
department if in doubt. In such a rare case, you would have to turn off the headlight during daylight hours when the
heated grips are on. (Check with your local laws ) For safety you should not use the heated grips in the dark if it
causes your headlights to dim appreciably. Solder all
connections. Do not be tempted to use the plastic 3M®
scotch-lok connectors for splicing into wires, as they are often sized incorrectly, will make poor electrical contact and
eventually oxidize and corrode. Cover all connections and exposed switch and resistor terminals with electrical tape .
.