Model Shipways 2003 - Manual (Page 11)

11
stay and the jibsail halliard. The port side
block is not used or is for other lines not
rigged on this model. Figure E-4 illustrates
the mast details.
Main Boom Rest - The main mast has a rest
for the boom. The rest is a laser cut part but
requires support chocks cut from stripwood
(Figure E-5).
3. Shaping & Detailing the Spars
Yards
Shape the yards in the same manner as the
masts. The maximum diameter of each yard is
at its center. Taper the yards outward from
each center.
Yard Details - Cut a shoulder on each end of
the yards which is a stop for lifts and
footropes. Also, drill holes (sheaves on real
ship) in the ends of the yards for the sheets
from the sail above. Though the plans do not
show them, most likely the yards have chocks
in way of the parrels and trusses.
Jackstays (12A) consists of a series of eyebolts
thru which a line is passed and fixed at the
ends of the yard. The line and eyebolts are
used for attaching the head of the sail and the
footrope stirrups. Note that the eyebolts are
on top of the yard but slightly forward of the
yards centerline. You have a lot of holes to
drill for the eyebolts. While you are detailing
the yards you might as well add the jackstay
lines after the eyebolts are installed.
Figure E-6 illustrates a typical yard.
Boom & Gaffs
The main boom and fore and aft gaffs also
taper, but the maximum diameter of each spar
should be about one-third from its fore end.
Like the yards, cut a shoulder at the outer end
of these spars. The boom and gaffs require
that jaws be added to their throats for joining
to the masts. The jaws are laser-cut wood
parts in this kit (Figure E-7).
Bowsprit, Jibboom, & Dolphin Striker
The bowsprit is tapered forward from the
hull. At the outer end, cut the square shape to
fit the bowsprit cap (Britannia casting found
in kit). The aft end of the bowsprit tapers
from the bow back to the bitts. From the end
of the stem back to the bitts on deck, the
shape is octagonal with a square end to fit the
bowsprit bitts hole. If using the dowel, you
will need to add wood as you did with the
squares on the masts. Or, you could forget
this task and just leave the bowsprit round.
The jibboom should be straight from the aft
end to the bowsprit cap, then tapered forward
of the cap. At the outer end cut a shoulder for
rigging stops.
Where is the aft end of the jibboom? The
plans show only that it stops at the bow, but
this is not the complete story. Typically, Balti-
more Clipper jibbooms ended somewhere
along the outer end of the bowsprit lashed
down to a saddle on the bowsprit. So for
Dapper Tom, it is recommended that you stop
the jibboom just aft of the forestay.
The dolphin striker is a simple tapered round
spar. Cut a flat at the upper end where it will
be glued to the bowsprit cap. At the bottom
of the spar, a wooden or metal cleat is fitted to
each side, which guide the fore topgallant stay
and martingale stay.
Figure E- 8 illustrates the bowsprit, jibboom,
and dolphin striker details.
Assembly -Glue the bowsprit cap onto the
bowsprit. Make a saddle for the jibboom,
then insert the jibboom. Make sure the jib- boom lines up with the bowsprit and then
glue it to the saddle atop the bowsprit. Glue
the dolphin striker (proper name martingale)
to the bowsprit cap. Add the bees for the fore
topmast stays, chock stops for rigging collars,
lashings, eyebolts, and other details as shown
in Figure E-9.
4. Installing the Mast & Bowsprit
Assemblies
Before installing the masts, shape and slide on
the mast coats which are laser cut rings (Fig-
ure E-10). The mast coats on a real ship are
actually canvas covers over the wedges holding
the masts in place.
Place the masts and bowsprit in the holes you
FIG. E-4 MAST DETAILS
FIG. E-6 TYPICAL YARD
FIG. E-8 BOWSPRIT,
JIBBOOM &
DOLPHIN STRIKER
CHEEKS P/S
MAKE FROM
WOOD SHEET
SHOULDER AT UPPER PART
OF MAIN TOPMAST & FORE
TOPGALLANT MAST
FORE TOP
MAIN TOP SIMILAR
HOLE FOR YARD TYE
CROSS TREES
TOPGALLANT
MAST
CHEEK
BLOCK P/S
DRILL HOLE
FOR SHROUDS
TRESTLE TREES
CROSS TREES
CASTING
CASTINGS
SHEAVE HOLES
TRESTLE TREE
HOLE FOR
TOPSAIL YARD TYE
FORE TOPMAST HEAD
HOLE FOR SAIL
ABOVE SHEET
SHOULDER
JACKSTAY
EYEBOLTS
FORWARD
FORWARD
FIG. E-5
MAIN BOOM REST
FIG. E-7 BOOM &
GAFF JAWS
LASER-CUT
RING
JACKSTAY LINE
FED THROUGH EYEBOLTS–
FIX AT ENDS
CHOCKS IN WAY OF
PARRELS & TRUSSES
CHOCKS
FROM
STRIPWOOD
PARREL
FLATTEN
SIDES
LASER-CUT
JAW HALF
AT CAP
TAPER
FLAT AT CAP
AT
BITTS
AT BOW
AT CAP
SHOULDER
SHOULDER
AT END OF STEM
BOWSPRIT
JIBBOOM
DOLPHIN STRIKER
STRAIGHT TAPER
KNOT