High Lifter Outlaw Clutch Kit for Kawasaki 750 Teryx EFI (09-11) - Manual (Page 2)

4. Remove the primary (front) clutch bolt (19mm socket). To remove this bolt turn clockwise. You need to use a
small bar or large screwdriver and stick it through the clutch to stop the clutch from rotating while you loosen the
center bolt. Remove the center bolt, washers, and any spacers that are there. Thread (clockwise) the clutch puller
(EPI part #PCP-13) in by hand and tighten until the clutch pops off the shaft, you will need to hold the clutch from
rotating. This clutch should pop of the shaft easily. DO NOT use excessive force on the clutch puller. Damage
can occur on either the clutch or puller. Contact your dealer if clutch does not come off engine by using reasonable
torque. Remove clutch puller. Remove the nut (27mm socket) from the secondary (rear) clutch. To remove this nut
turn counterclockwise. Remove both clutches at the same time and place on a clean work surface.
5. Disassemble the primary clutch by removing the 8 bolts on the cover plate (10mm socket). Notice the arrow
marked on the cover plate. There is also a notch in the casting on the side of the spider. These are alignment marks
from the factory and must line up when you reassemble the clutch. Carefully remove the cover from the clutch and
set on a clean surface. Note: There are 2 metal locator
pins sticking out of the top of 2 of the clutch towers that
could fall out while removing the clutch cover. If they fall out, make sure to replace them in the 2 holes in the top of
the clutch towers before reassembling the clutch cover. Remove the spring. You will also need to remove the shim
from under the spring. You will not reuse this shim with the clutch kit.
6. Remove one nut (10mm) on the pin that holds each weight in place, slide the pin out of the clutch and remove the
weight. Install an EPI weight making sure the tip of the weight is resting on the inside ledge of the clutch. Slide the
pin through the holes in the clutch and the weight and reinstall the nut. Repeat this step for the other three
weights. NOTE: If your kit has two different gram weights, for example two 54 and two 56 weights, be
sure to place them directly across from each other (or every other one). This keeps the clutch in
balance.
7. Install the EPI MAROON primary spring and bolt the clutch cover back on using a criss-cross pattern to tighten
down the cover. There is an arrow marked on the cover plate and a notch in the casting on the side of the spider.
These are alignment marks and must line up when the clutch is assembled. Set clutch aside and start working on
the secondary clutch.
8. Using the compression tool (EPI part #CCT510) slide the secondary clutch over the threaded rod with the spring
side facing up. Slide the collar, washers and nut on. Tighten top nut down until the spring retainer is compressed
enough to take the pressure off the snap ring. Remove snap ring using snap ring pliers. Slowly loosen nut on
threaded rod allowing the spring to slowly expand. If you run out of threads before all of the tension is off the
spring lower the bottom nut to give you more space. Remove the nut, washers and the collar from the tool.
Remove the snap ring, spring retainer and spring from clutch. Install the EPI GREEN secondary spring into the
clutch. Place the spring retainer on top of spring followed by the snap ring followed by the collar, washer and nut.
Slowly thread the top nut down until the spring retainer is far enough down to install the snap ring. Install snap ring
and remove the clutch from the compression tool.
9. EPI recommends cleaning your clutches when you have them off your machine. Use a clean rag or towel with
contact or brake cleaner that does not leave any oily film. Clean all parts of the clutch except for the clutch
bushings. Solvent can damage your bushings; just use a dry rag to clean them.
10. Place the belt on both clutches. Most belts have an arrow indicating direction of rotation. If your belt doesn’t, be
sure to install it so that you can read the part number. In either case, always run the belt the same direction as it
was new. Slide both clutches on the machine at the same time. Sometimes the secondary clutch takes a few tries
before it will engage the splines on the shaft and slide on all the way – be patient and it will slide into place. Install
the secondary clutch nut and torque to 69 ft/lbs. Install primary clutch bolt, washers, and any spacers that were
there. Torque the primary clutch bolt to 69 ft/lbs.
11. Install the clutch cover carefully to get a good seal. Plug in the black ignition wire. Install the vent tube on the
back of the clutch cover. Slide support frame back into place and install the small bolts holding the 4WD vacuum
actuator to the support frame. Plug the 2 wires back in to the coil. The white wire goes to the inside post (closest
to motor) and the black wire goes to the outside post. Install the 2 bolts that secure the seat support frame.
Install the gas tank and the straps back into position. Install the vent line and fuel line to the gas tank. Install the
passenger seat support bracket and bolt to frame. Install all plastic including the center console. Install the
passenger and driver seats and prepare to ride.
12. Go out and ride your machine in your normal riding conditions. If the performance does not seem right, double
check to see if everything was installed properly.
NOTICE: Even with this clutch kit, you should be advised that using substantial throttle when the tires are not able to
spin can cause the belt to slip and damage may occur. EPI recommends that the transmission be shifted into low
range when high load, slower speed situations are encountered. EPI is not responsible for any damage to the drive
belt or any other original equipment component.