Dayton Audio RS1200A 12" Reference Series Subwoofer Assembled User Manual

12" reference series subwoofer system, User's manual, Model: rs1200

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12" Reference Series

Subwoofer System

Model: RS1200

User's Manual

©2007 Dayton Audio

®

(4)

Connection/Configurations

Most pre-amps and receivers have a stereo line output that

follows the output level that is set by the system master volume

control; these outputs would connect to the line-level inputs on

the subwoofer amp control panel. Many newer multi-channel

receivers have a dedicated mono subwoofer output, usually

labeled LFE or Low Frequency Effects. The use of this output

will permit you to have separate control over the bass output

of the source, and it also permits you to set a crossover

frequency. When using an LFE output, use a single cable to

connect to the LFE input on the sub amp; keep in mind that this

input bypasses the internal low pass filter on the amplifier. For

either configuration, the system will operate with the greatest

linearity and least noise if all gain controls are balanced; that

is, no single gain control is operating at much more than 50%

of its total range. If one output is set at 10% and it feeds a

corresponding input that ends up at 90% then hum, noise, and

overly sensitive control characteristics may result.

The RS1200 comes shipped standard for 110V U.S. operation;

simply connect the included IEC power cord to your wall outlet.

For 220V input, remove the fuse holder, rotate 180 degrees,

and re-install. In most 220V applications a separate power cord

will be required and is not included. When connecting your

subwoofer for the first time, it is important to remember to start

with the amplifier OFF and the gain control set at minimum.

Start some source program that contains good bass material,

apply AC power to the subwoofer, and slowly increase the gain

on the sub amp. You should hear a gradual increase in deep

bass output as you bring up the volume. When the overall

balance between low and high frequency seems close, adjust

the phase switch and keep it set where the sub-bass response

sounds best in your listening location. You may then use the

parametric equalizer to finish off the general contour of the

low frequencies, or to correct a troublesome room mode or

resonance. These steps to achieve an optimum room response

should be used in conjunction with the steps described in the

next section, because the physical location of the speaker

components in the system can affect performance as much as

the electronic adjustments.

Room Placement/Integration

The requirement for the room location of a subwoofer is

substantially different than what we would expect for full range

speakers. We are not concerned with stereo imaging due

to the omnidirectional nature of sub bass, and bass tends

to fill a room with little bearing on positioning the subwoofer

in direct line-ofsight. Bass energy is easily reinforced by

reflection, and as those reflections recombine, the resulting

buildup can cause very irregular response in the room in the

form of peaks. Similarly, phase cancellations can occur when

the sound waves at a specific frequency cause destructive

interference and cancel each other out, and create holes or

nulls in the response. Keeping the subwoofer out of the center

between two opposing walls, and also out of corners, will help

to achieve the most even, consistent response. Some listeners

may prefer the “boomier” sound that results from placing a sub

in a corner, or need the increase in gain to compensate for

some other factor. It is generally a good idea to avoid placing

the subwoofer where it is perfectly centered between any two

opposing parallel planes (two walls; or the floor and ceiling). In

some cases, moving the enclosure just a few feet can make a

noticeable difference.

Aligning the subwoofer along a line drawn between the left/right

main speakers will help to keep the speakers in the same time

domain and will improve coherence. When properly integrated,

the actual location of the subwoofer will disappear and the

bass will seem to be coming from the main left/right speakers

on either side. Test tones and measurement equipment can

help you with your system setup, but good results can also be

achieved by spending time with a couple of well recorded CDs

with which you are especially familiar. You may find it useful to

have an associate make adjustments to the various system

controls, or even move speaker enclosures, while you remain in

a consistent listening position. After satisfying yourself that your

primary location is OK, move around a bit to make sure that

the wider soundstage is acceptable. There’s no good reason

why a single high quality subwoofer cannot be used for both

home stereo and home theatre applications. Each person has

his or her own individual preference as far as tonality, loudness,

range, or definition is concerned, and the biggest difference

between home theatre and home stereo is not the hardware

as much as how the hardware is used. A typical home theatre

system will tend to have the output of the subwoofer turned up

a bit more than what would be appropriate for home stereo.

Most cinema soundtracks are mixed with the sub-bass dialed

in to create both musical support and dramatic special effects.

It is up to you to decide how much you want the Imperial Battle

Cruisers to shake your house.

Troubleshooting

Hum:

The addition of a new active sub to an existing system can

sometimes result in the subwoofer beginning to hum. While

it would be easy to assume that the new product is at fault or

even defective, it is usually just an indicator that it is time to

take a closer look at the overall grounding of the audio system.

To start with, verify that all audio equipment in the system is on

the same AC power circuit. The outlets in a listening area may

or may not all be on the same breaker, some could even be on

a completely different breaker panel. Always make sure that all

equipment grounds are in good condition, and NEVER remove

the ground pin from a power plug. There are some cases where

the actual power line has some form of interference but the

most common cause of noise is a ground loop, meaning that

the system’s different ground points lack a common potential.

The cable TV line can be the cause of hum in multi-source

home audio/video systems. Just temporarily disconnect the

cable line, and if the hum stops then the use of an inline

isolation transformer is suggested. Other situations may require

the installation of an improved earth ground (connection to a

metal water pipe or grounding rod) in the vicinity of the audio/

video system. The key is to proceed slowly and step by step,

taking care to identify which cables or combinations of cables

cause noise when connected.

Weak Bass Output:

If bass output seems low, consider the different parts of the

system that can contribute to gain or volume. Try moving the

subwoofer to a corner. Make sure that the bass output control

of the receiver is set correctly (if so equipped). Be sure to use

a “Y” cord to connect both line level inputs if you are using

a mono source. Verify that the source that is feeding the

subwoofer does not have a crossover of its own that is set to a

lower frequency than the one in the subwoofer speaker.

Specifications

Frequency Response: 25Hz-200Hz

SPL: 110dB

Amplifier Power Output: 500 Watts RMS

Signal to Noise Ratio: 98 dB A-weighted

Input Impedance: 12K ohms

Dimensions: 17”(W) x 17”(H) x 17-1/4”(D)

Net Weight: 77 lbs.

Power Requirements: 110-120 VAC, 60 Hz. (8A GMA fuse)

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