John Wood Power Direct Vent (Non-ENERGY STAR qualified models) - Manual (Page 27)

High efficient energy saver water heaters will produce larg-
er amounts of condensation on initial start-up or when a
large amount of hot water is being used. Do not confuse this
with a “tank leak”. Once the water reaches a temperature of
49°C (120°F) and the tank warms up (usually 1-2 hours),
the condensation will stop.
Important: It is always recommended that a suitable drain
pan be installed under the water heater to protect the area
from water damage resulting from normal condensation pro-
duction, a leaking tank or piping connections. Refer to
“Location Requirements”. Under no circumstances is the
manufacturer to be held responsible for any water damage
in connection with this water heater.
Water Heater Sounds
During the normal operation of the water heater, sounds or
noises may be heard. These noises are common and may
result from the following:
1. Normal expansion and contraction of metal parts during
periods of heat-up and cool-down.
2. Condensation causes sizzling and popping within the
burner area and should be considered normal.
3. Sediment buildup in the tank bottom will create varying
amounts of noise and may cause premature tank fail-
ure. Drain and flush the tank as directed under
“Draining and Flushing”.
Smoke/Odour
The water heater may give off a small amount of smoke and
odour during the initial start-up of the unit. This is due to the
burning off of oil from metal parts of a new unit and will dis-
appear after a few minutes of operation.
Anode Rod/Water Odour
Each water heater contains at least one anode rod, which
will slowly deplete while protecting the glass-lined tank from
corrosion and prolonging the life of the water heater. Once
the anode is depleted, the tank will start to corrode, eventu-
ally developing a leak. Certain water conditions will cause a
reaction between this rod and the water. The most common
complaint associated with the anode rod is a “rotten egg
smell” produced from the presence of hydrogen sulfide gas
dissolved in the water. Do not remove this rod perma-
nently as it will void any warranties, stated or implied. A
special anode can be ordered if water odour or discoloura-
tion occurs. This rod may reduce but not eliminate water
odour problems. The water supply system may require
special filtration equipment from water conditioning compa-
ny to successfully eliminate all water odour problems.
Artificially softened water is exceedingly corrosive because
the process substitutes sodium ions for magnesium and cal-
cium ions. The use of a water softener may decrease the life
of the water heater tank.
The anode rod should be removed from the water heater
tank every year for inspection. If the rod is more than 50%
depleted, the anode rod should be replaced. To replace the
anode:
1. Turn off gas supply to the water heater.
2. Shut off the water supply and open a nearby hot water
faucet to depressurize the water tank.
3. Drain approximately 20 litres (5 US gallons) of water
from tank (Refer to “Draining and Flushing” for proper
procedures.) Close drain valve.
4. Remove old anode rod.
5. Use Teflon® tape or approved pipe sealant on threads
and install new anode rod.
6. Turn on water supply and open nearby hot water faucet
to purge air from water system.
7. Restart the water heater as directed under “Operating
Your Water Heater.” See the “Repair Parts Illustration”
for anode rod location.
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