Team Associated RC8.2e - Manual (Page 34)

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:: Rear End Tips
Rear Differential:
Start with the standard setup. For expert drivers, the most popular setting for buggy is 3,000 cst. the thicker
5,000cst kit oil will rotate less in the turns and accelerate straight on power. The thinner oil (2,000 or 3,000cst) will
give more low speed traction.
Anti-squat:
Anti-squat denotes the angel of the rear inner hinge pin relative to the ground. This setting is adjusted by changing the
insert bushing in the C-Plate. The kit setting is 2 degrees (2-dot down) but you change to 1 degree (3-dot down). Typically
less anti-squat lets the suspension work more over the bumps, but it will sacrifice the ability to square up on power.
Rear Camber Link Length & Vertical Adjustment:
You can change the length of the camber link on the hub or tower as well as adjust the vertical location on the tower.
A longer link will give the feeling of the most grip, but it will not be as responsive to square up on throttle, and might get
loose if driven hard. This can easily be corrected by running the shorter link on the hub, but it will sacrifice some forward
grip.
Changing to a higher location on the tower will be a smaller adjustment than changing the length of the upper link.
Going up on the tower location has a similar effect as a longer camber link, but not as drastic. For example, if you change
to the short rear link on the hub and you need to gain more forward grip, try raising the link up on the tower. New
additional lower holes should be used when running the optional hinge pin hole in the rear hub carrier.
Rear Hub Hinge Pin Height:
The upper hole gives more rear grip on turn in, and good forward traction, but it might have difficulty squaring up out of
turns. The lower hinge pin hole in the hub will be more responsive on throttle, and give more side grip in the turns.
Rear Hub Spacing:
You have 3 options for rear hub spacing, FWD, MIDDLE, & BACK. The kit setting provides a good balance of rear
traction and steering, and will be used most often. Moving the hubs FWD will give more rear traction for low grip tracks.
You can use the hubs BACK on high grip tracks for more on-power steering. Also, you can replace the included shims to
get intermediate settings.
Rear Camber:
A good starting camber setting is –2 degrees. Use the included #1719 camber gauge to set your camber. Adding a
small amount of positive camber, where the top of the tire is leaning out, will tend to improve straight-line acceleration on
loose tracks.
Rear Ride Height:
The rear ride height setting you should use most often is 29mm of gap between the chassis bottom and ground.
Check the ride height with the FT Ride Height Gauge (#1449) by lifting up the entire vehicle about 8-12 inches off the
bench and drop it. After the suspension “settles” into place, then raise or lower the adjustment collars as necessary
and recheck.
Rear Arm Shock Location:
Inside on the arm will give less entry steering, accelerates better straightline through bumps, but may lack side bite.
Outside on the arm will be less grip, more steering, but will be more predictable when it breaks traction.
:: Front End Tips (cont.)
Front Camber Angle:
A good starting camber setting is –2 degrees. Positive camber, where the top of the tire is leaning out, is typically not
recommended.
Front Toe-In:
Zero degree toe-in (tires pointing straight forward) is a good starting setting. You can increase turn in by adding 1-2
degrees of toe-out (front of tires point slightly out). Front toe - in is not a typical tuning adjustment used by the Team.
Front Ride Height:
The front ride height setting you should use most often is with 29mm of gap between the chassis bottom and the
ground. Check the ride height with the FT Ride Height Gauge (#1449) by lifting up the entire vehicle about 8-12 inches
off the bench and drop it. After the suspension “settles” into place, then raise or lower the adjustment collars as
necessary and recheck.
Front Arm Shock Location:
Inside on the arm will give a more responsive front end. Outside on the arm will be less responsive steering, but will be
more predictable through bumps.