Great Planes Super Sportster 40 MkII ARF - GPMA1042 - Manual (Page 15)

of the fuselage, use the pattern on page 23 to make an
engine mount spacer from 1/4" plywood (if 1/4" plywood is
not available, two spacers could be made from 1/8"
plywood). 6-32 x 1" screws (not included) will be required for
mounting the engine mount. Coat the spacer with fuelproof
paint or 30-minute epoxy. Mount the engine mount to the
firewall with the engine mount spacer in between.
❏
3. Holding the engine in position, use a Great Planes
Dead Center Engine Mount Hole Locator (GPMR8130) or
another method to mark the engine mount holes on the
engine mount.
❏
4. Remove the engine from the mount. Drill #43 (or 3/32"
[2.4mm]) holes through the mount at the marks, then tap
4-40 threads into the holes (this is most easily done if the
mount is removed from the fuselage). Mount the engine to
the mount with four 4-40 x 3/4" [19mm] socket head cap
screws and #4 flat washers and lock washers.
❏
5. Mount the spinner, prop and muffler to the engine.
Make adjustments where necessary.
❏
1. Assemble the stopper and tubes as shown in the photo,
then insert them into the tank. Tighten the screw to expand
the stopper, thus sealing the tank. Be certain the fuel line
weight (clunk) at the end of the fuel line inside the tank does
not contact the rear of the tank. Otherwise, the line may
become stuck above the fuel level and discontinue fuel flow.
Remember (or use a felt-tip pen to mark) which tube is the
fuel pick-up tube and which tube is the vent (that will be
connected to the pressure fitting on the muffler).
❏
2. Install the tank in the fuse with the neck of the tank
inserted into the hole in the firewall. Make a fuel tank brace
from the 1/4" x 3/4" x 8" [6 x 19 x 200mm] balsa stick by
cutting it to the correct length to fit between the fuselage
sides at the back of the tank. The width of the brace may
vary from kit to kit, but the approximate length should be 3-
7/16" [87mm] (but start by cutting the stick slightly long, then
trimming to fit). Notch the corners of the brace as shown to
accommodate the plywood fuse doublers inside the fuse.
❏
3. Test fit the fuel tank brace behind the tank. Trim to fit
as necessary. When satisfied with the fit of the brace, push
it tight against the back of the tank, then glue the brace into
position with thin or medium CA. After the CA hardens
secure the back of the tank to the brace with a dab of RTV
silicone. If removal of the tank is ever necessary, the brace
may simply be broken free.
❏
1. Determine how you will route the throttle pushrod and
where it will exit the firewall. There is already a 3/16"
[4.8mm] hole in the firewall for the pushrod that will align
with the carburetor arm on most two-stroke engines, but if it
doesn’t align with the engine you are using, drill another
hole in a suitable location–be certain not to drill into the fuel
tank! As can be seen in the photo of one of the prototypes
using an O.S. .52 four-stroke, a hole was drilled through the
firewall above the fuel tank in alignment with the carb arm.
(In the four-stroke setup shown, due to the short distance
between the carburetor and the firewall, a screw-lock connector
(not included) was used on the carb.)
Hookup the Controls
FINAL ASSEMBLY
Install the Fuel Tank
15