Great Planes Extra 300S 40 Kit - GPMA0235 - Manual (Page 7)

7
There are two types of screws used in this kit:
Sheet metal screws are designated by a number and
a length.
For example #6 x 3/4"
Machine screws are designated by a number, threads per
inch and a length.
For example 4-40 x 3/4"
When you see the term “test fit” in the instructions, it
means you should first position the part on the assembly
without using any glue, then slightly modify the part as
necessary for the best fit.
Whenever just “epoxy” is specified you may use either
30-minute epoxy or 6-minute epoxy. When 30-minute epoxy
is specified it is highly recommended that you use only
30-minute (or slower) epoxy because you will need either
the working time and/or the additional strength.
Several times during construction we refer to the “top” or
“bottom” of the model or a part of the model. For example,
during wing construction we tell you to “glue the top main
spar” or “trim the bottom of the former.” It is understood that
the “top” or “bottom” of the model is as it would be when the
airplane is right side up and will be referred to as the “top”
even if the model is being worked on upside down. I.E. the
“top” main spar is always the “top” main spar even when the
wing is being built upside down.
1. Unroll the plan sheets. Reroll the plans inside out to
make them lie flat.
2. Remove all parts from the box. As you do, figure out the
name of each part by comparing it with the plans and the
parts list included with this kit. Using a felt-tip or ballpoint
pen, lightly write the part name or size on each piece to
avoid confusion later. Use the die-cut patterns shown on
pages 4 and 5 to identify the die-cut parts and mark them
before removing them from the sheet. Save all scraps. If
any of the die-cut parts are difficult to punch out, do not
force them! Instead, cut around the parts with a hobby
knife. After punching out the die-cut parts, use your bar
sander or sanding block to lightly sand the edges to
remove any die-cutting irregularities or slivers.
3. As you identify and mark the parts, separate them into
groups, such as fuse (fuselage), wing, fin, stab (stabilizer)
and hardware.
You may remove the stabilizer and elevator drawing from
the wing plan by cutting along the dotted line. Don't forget
to cover the plans with waxed paper so the glue won't stick
to them.
❏
1. Begin making the stab leading edge doubler by
accurately cutting the 1/4" x 1-1/2" x 15" balsa sheet so it is
13-3/4" long.
❏
2. Use a ballpoint pen and a drafting square to
accurately mark the centerline of the stab doubler (6-7/8"
from the end). Use your pen to mark another line on both
ends of the doubler 7/8" from one edge. The following
photo shows the locations of these marks.
❏
3. Use a straightedge to draw a line connecting the
centerline of the stab doubler with the marks on the ends
as shown in the photo.
❏
4. Use a hobby knife with a sharp #11 blade to cut along
the lines you drew. If necessary, use a bar sander to true
the leading edges you just cut. Use the plan as a guide to
mark and cut the bevel on both ends of the stab doubler.
❏
1. Pin the stab LE doubler in position over the plan. Cut
the stab center from the 1/4" x 2" x 6" balsa sheet and
save the small piece you cut off. Add a bead of medium CA
to the front of the stab center, then glue it to the LE doubler
and pin it in position. Wipe away excess CA before it cures.
Build the Stab
Make the Stab Leading Edge Doubler
BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES
Get Ready to Build
Building Notes