Great Planes Piper J-3 Cub 60 Kit - GPMA0162 - Manual (Page 37)

D 7. Remove the stringer/pushrod exit from the fuselage and
round the outer corners of the stringer so it will resemble a
"tube." Sand the bevel at the rear of the long stringers and the
front of the short stringers. Glue the front and rear stringers to
the fuselage along the line you previously marked.
D 4. On the front face of each block, trace the outline
made by former TF4 and the stringers. Remove the blocks
and carve them to conform to the correct shape. Notice
that the shape of the dowels is carried onto the balsa tail
fairing blocks.
D 8. Sand the pushrod exit to the same angle that will be
formed by the covering when stretched from the stringer to
the fuse side under the stabilizer.
D 5. Glue the blocks into position and final sand to match
top deck former TF4 and the dowels. Fill any gaps with
HobbyLite filler.
D 1. Trial fit each 1" x 1-1/8" x 7-1/2" balsa tail fairing
block at the corner junction between the stabilizer and fin.
Sand the front face of the blocks to butt against the turtle
deck former TF4.
D 2. With the tail fairing blocks on the stabilizer, mark a
line on the top of each block from the outside edge of TF4
to where the block meets the trailing edge of the fin.
IMPORTANT NOTE: The wing is designed to be very
strong without the wing struts and will probably not fail if
flown in a slow, scale-like manner. However, the wing
struts are required for high speed flight and when
performing non-scale maneuvers that involve high
stresses. We have developed special new strut end
attachments to make strut mounting easier than ever and
we recommend that you use the struts at all times.
D D 1. Drill a 1/16" pilot hole, about 1" deep at one end
of each wing strut. Drill the hole centered in the thickest
portion of the wing strut.
D 3. Remove the blocks and cut them to a wedge shape
with a razor saw. D D 2. Use a #35 (or 7/64") bit to drill 1" deep into the
pilot holes.
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