LAARS U.H.E. - Installation Manual - Manual (Page 41)

ANODE INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT
This water heater is equipped with multiple sacrificial anodes. Anodes protect the glass-lined tank from corrosion by
sacrificing themselves through electrolysis. When the anode material is consumed, there is no more protection and
corrosion of the tank accelerates.
Inspection of the anode every 6 months allows you to identify the rate of anode degradation. The anode should be
replaced when its diameter is 3/8 of an inch, or annually which ever is first. Aggressive, very hot and softened water
causes rapid consumption of the anode requiring frequent inspections. The replacement anodes rods are available from
your local distributor.
To inspect or replace an anode:
The anodes on this water heater are easily accessible from the top of the water heater making replacement simple and
quick. Use the following procedure to remove and inspect the anodes.
1. Drain the heater. Refer to DRAINING THE WATER HEATER instructions in this section.
2. Flush the heater. Refer to FLUSHING THE WATER HEATER instructions in this section.
3. Remove the combustion surround top by unlatching.
4. Remove the second pass access cover. (If equipped)
5. Remove the second pass insulation.
6. Remove the second pass collector cover.
7. Remove the anode using a socket of the appropriate size. Sometimes a breaker bar will need to be used. Do not
use an impact wrench.
8. Inspect and replace the anode as required. Use pipe tape or sealant when reinstalling the anode.
9. Close the drain valve. Open a hot water fixture to allow air to escape. Open the cold water supply to water heater
and allow the tank to fill.
10. Check your anode and drain valve for leaks.
11. Replace second pass collector cover. Make sure to clean off any sealant and reseal before fastening.
12. Replace second pass insulation.
13. Replace second pass access cover.
14. Replace combustion surround top and latch it securely in place.
15. Follow the lighting instructions.
POWERED ANODE SYSTEM FOR 100 GALLON 399,999 BTU/HR. INPUT MODELS:
Models with input ratings of 399,999 Btu/hr. are equipped with a powered anode system. The powered anode system
provides corrosion protection to the tank by supplying a low voltage current to the titanium anode rods and then
periodically comparing this current with the potential between the anode rod and tank wall to make corrections. The
powered anode system is designed to extend the tank life without requiring anode rod replacement. The powered anode
system consists of two titanium powered anode rods (31 7/8” long), located in the front top of the water heater tank, and
the powered anode control module located on the right side of the control panel. In addition, there is one additional
magnesium anode rod (non-powered) located under the top flue collector for additional back-up protection.
The powered anode rod must have the electrical power supply connected at all times in order to provide corrosion
protection to the water heater tank. If the electrical supply to the water heater is to be off for an extended period of
time, the water heater must be drained. Turning off the lighted switch on the front panel to shut off the water heater will
not turn off the powered anode system, as long as the line cord is plugged in and the breaker is left on.
The powered anode control module is located on the right vertical side of the control panel inside the surround panel.
The control has a LED indicator light to show the status of operation. When the tank is filled with water and the power
supply is on to the water heater, the light should have a steady green glow to indicate that protection current is flowing
and operating normally. If the indicator light is not glowing, the power supply to the water heater or powered anode
system is disconnected. Check the power supply or wire connections to the powered anode control.
If the control is flashing red, then there is a malfunction with the powered anode system. Make sure there are no bare
spots in the wire insulation to the powered anode rods. Check all electrical connections. The powered anode rods are
insulated from the water heater tank in the bushing. With an ohmeter, check continuity between the powered anode
terminal and the bushing. There should not be continuity. If there is continuity, replace the powered anode assembly.
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