Milwaukee Tool 6391 - Manual (Page 6)

10 11
Selecting Tilt-Lok™ Handle Positions
The Tilt-Lok™ handle is a feature which allows the
user to adjust the angle of the handle for optimum
cutting positions. The Tilt-Lok™ handle has eight (8)
detents which allow the handle to snap into position
(Fig.14). See “Adjusting Tilt-Lok™ Handle” for
instuctions on adjusting the handle. Refer to the
chart below for suggested handle positions.
* These are only suggested positions; the actual optimum
cutting position may vary depending on the actual ap-
plication and user preference.
APPLICATIONS
WARNING To reduce the risk of injury,
wear safety goggles or glasses with side shields.
WARNING To reduce the risk of injury,
always unplug tool before attaching or remov-
ing accessories or making adjustments. Use
only specifi cally recommended accessories.
Others may be hazardous.
APPLICATION
SUGGESTED TILT-LOK
POSITIONS*
For cuts made
at or near waist
level Handle in lower positions (Fig. 15)
allows for more leverage when
pushing the saw through the
workpiece.
For shallow cuts
made at or near
waist level Handle in lower positions allows
the user to apply increased down-
ward force during shallow cuts.
For cuts made
below the waist,
as in fl ooring ap-
plications H a n d l e i n h i g h e r p o s i t i o n s
(Fig. 16) reduce the amount of
“bending over” by the user. Higher
handle positions allow the user
to apply an increased downward
force on the saw.
For cuts made
overhead, as in
ceiling applica-
tions Handle in higher positions reduce
the amount of extended reach by
the user for overhead cuts. Higher
handle positions allow the user to
apply an increased upward force
on the saw.
6. After fi nishing a cut, be sure the lower guard
closes and the blade comes to a complete stop
before setting the saw down.
Troubleshooting
If the blade does not follow a straight line:
• Teeth are dull. This is caused by hitting a hard
object such as a nail or stone, dulling teeth on one
side. The blade tends to cut to the side with the
sharpest teeth.
• Shoe is out of line or bent
• Blade is bent
• Rip fence or guide is not being used
If the blade binds, smokes or turns blue from friction:
• Blade is dull
• Blade is on backwards
• Blade is bent
• Blade is dirty
• Workpiece is not properly supported
• Incorrect blade is being used
Fig. 14
Fig. 15
Fig. 16
Cutting Large Panels
Large panels and long boards sag or bend if they
are not correctly supported. If you attempt to
cut without leveling and properly supporting the
workpiece, the blade will tend to bind, causing
KICKBACK.
Support large panels. Be sure to set the depth of
the cut so that you only cut through the workpiece,
not through the supports.
Fig. 17
Pocket Cutting
Pocket cuts are made in the middle of the work-
piece when it can not be cut from an edge. We
recommend using a Sawzall
® reciprocating saw or
jig saw for this type of cut. However, if you must
use a circular saw to make a pocket cut, USE
EXTREME CAUTION. To maintain control of the
saw during pocket cutting, keep both hands on the
saw (Fig. 18).
Ripping Wood
Ripping is cutting lengthwise with the grain. Select
the proper blade for your job. Use a rip fence for
rips 4" wide or less. To install the rip fence, slide
the bar through the rip fence slot in either side of
the shoe. The width of the cut is the distance from
the inside of the blade to the inside edge of the rip
fence. Adjust the rip fence for the desired width, and
lock the setting by tightening the rip fence screws.
When ripping widths greater than 4", clamp or tack
1" lumber to workpiece and use the inside edge of
the shoe as a guide.
Cross-Cutting Wood
Cross-cutting is cutting across the grain. Select the
proper blade for your job. Advance the saw slowly
to avoid splintering the wood.
1. Beginning at a corner, line up the sight line with
your cutting line. Tilt the saw forward, fi rmly fi xing
the front of the shoe on the workpiece. The blade
should be just above cutting line, but not touching
it. Raise the lower guard using the lower guard
lever.
2. Pull the trigger, allowing the blade to come up to
full speed. Using the front of the shoe as a hinge
point, gradually lower the back end of the saw
into the workpiece.
3. When the shoe rests fl at against workpiece, re-
lease the lower guard lever. Advance the saw to
the far corner. Release the trigger and allow the
blade to come to a complete stop before remov-
ing it from workpiece. Repeat the above steps
for each side of the opening. Use a Sawzall
®
reciprocating saw, jig saw or small hand saw to
fi nish the corners if they are not completely cut
through.
Fig. 18
WARNING To reduce the risk of electric
shock, check work area for hidden pipes and
wires before making pocket cuts.
When cutting masonry, use a diamond blade. Make
successive passes at depths of less than 1/4" to
achieve the desired depth. Cutting at a depth of
more than 1/4" will damage wheel. Unplug the tool
and frequently clean dust from air vents and guards.
WARNING Dust, chips, and grit can
cause guard to hang up at any time. If saw
is used to cut masonry or metal, reserve and
mark it for that purpose only and return it to
a MILWAUKEE service facility for cleaning
and testing before using it for wood cutting.
WARNING Only use accessories with
maximum speed rating at least as high as
nameplate RPM of tool.
WARNING Do not use tool for cutting
metal near fl ammable material. Sparks may
cause fi re.
Cutting Masonry and Metal
MILWAUKEE circular saws are not intended for
continuous use in cutting metal or masonry. When
cutting these materials, use the correct blade. MIL-
WAUKEE does not recommend using bonded abra-
sive wheels on circular saws for any application.
When cutting metal, use a metal cutting blade. Set
depth of cut to full depth. Protect everyone in the
area from sparks.