Tie Down Drum Brakes - Manual (Page 3)

Page 2
Drum Brake Installation
1. Using an adequate capacity floor or scissors jack, raise the side of the trailer.
Block the wheels opposite the side being worked on both front and rear so that the
trailer cannot roll. DO NOT rely on the jack as the only means of support.
Always support the trailer with adequate capacity support stands.
UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES IS THE TRAILER TO BE SUPPORTED BY THE
TONGUE JACK WHILE BEING RAISED AT THE WHEELS!
NOTE: Check under frames for brake lines BEFORE lifting. DO NOT position jack in
areas that may damage brake lines, etc.
NOTE: For tandem and tri-axle trailers, jack should be placed on the frame between
the wheels, or directly under the axle within 8” of the backside of the tire. Single
axle trailers can be lifted on the frame just behind the axle or directly under the axle
within 8” of the backside of the tire (if lifting at the axle).
2. Remove the wheels
3. Remove the dust cap.
4. If your spindle has a tang washer, pull up on the tab so you can unlock and remove
the castle nut. If you have a cotter pin, pull it out and remove the castle nut.
5. Remove the hub. It may be helpful to release tension to the brakes pads by backing
off the star adjuster.
6. Disconnect the hydraulic brake lines or the electric brake wires.
7. Remove the backing plate by removing the 4 or 5 mounting bolts holding the brake to
the brake flange. Clean the spindle and brake flange.
8. Determine which side the brakes go on. The brakes should be labeled “L” for Drivers
side & “R” for Passenger side. If the labels have been removed, simply look at the
master cylinder on top (for hydraulic brakes), the piston inside the master cylinder
will always point forward. For Electric brakes look at the magnet bracket, the curved
bracket should point forward with the open end towards the back. See next page.