Top Flite Metrick - Manual (Page 10)

the "typical wingtip cross sections" shown on the
plan.
30. The outboard panels are now joined to the inboard
panels by first epoxying W-17 in place in the inboard
panel and then epoxying the two panels together,
proping-up the tips, at W-13, 1-1/4" as shown. Allow to
dry completely.
31. The wing panels should now be carefully and com-
pletely sanded to final shape. Note the progression
shown on the plans for bringing the leading edge
down to final shape and the template provided for
checking the leading edge entry. Also note that as the
inboard sections are sanded, the tack-glued F-11 ribs
will assume the exact shape of the W-1 wing root ribs.
FINAL ASSEMBLY
1. Use your sanding block and medium-to-light sand-
paper to airfoil the fin, rudder and stab halves to
shape—note cross sections on plans.
2. Thread at least 1/4" of the 1" threaded stud provided
into one end of the inner yellow pushrod and then
thread a clevis in place on the stud. Since we don't
want this clevis to have any possibility of unscrewing
itself from the stud, add a drop or two of Cyanoacryl-
ate to the threads. Install the wing rods and wings to
the fuselage. Attach the clevis which is now con-
nected to the pushrod, to the exposed 1/16" dia. hole in
the bottom of the fin and insert the opposite end of
the yellow inner pushrod into the end of the red outer
pushrod tube at the top rear of the fuselage. Apply a
slow drying glue to the bottom of the fin, where it
rests against the lower longerons and to the sides of
the fin, where it "nests" between the fuselage sides
and carefully slip the fin in place into the rear of the
fuselage. Now mount the stab halves to the fin and
view the assembled aircraft from the front. Make sure
the fin is 90° to the fuselage and that the stab halves
are flat and alinged at right angles to the fin—take
your time to ensure everything is properly aligned.
Use pins, tape, etc... to hold the fin in the proper
position and allow to dry completely.
3. With the wings in place on the fuselage, lightly pencil
the outline of the root F-11 ply ribs onto the portion
extending forward onto the canopy sides. Then mark
the top and bottom location of the front face of
angled former F-10. Remove the wings and remove
the previously tack glued F-11 ribs from the right and
left wing roots. With a saw, using the top and bottom
location marks you just made, cut off the front of the
F-11 ribs. Glue the two small forward pieces of these
ribs in place on each side of the canopy hatch, using
the outline you drew for placement. Glue the two rear
parts of F-11 in place over the wing tubes and to the
fuselage sides. Use a sanding block to bring any
protruding ends of the wing tubes flush with the F-11
ribs.
4. Glue ply tailskid F-12 into the slot at the bottom rear
of the fuselage. The completed fuselage is now
sanded to final shape—refer to the plans for typical
radiusing.
5. Carefully remove the previously tack glued canopy/
hatch and the access hatch from the fuselage. Using
the 1/16" x 1/2" ply strip provided, cut a length to fit
accurately between the two inside fuselage sides at
the forward base of the canopy/hatch. Epoxy this to
the bottom of the canopy base so that approximately
1/16" of its forward edge will fit beneath the front balsa
canopy fairing. This becomes the forward canopy
"hold-down". Since the canopy is held in position at
the rear when the wings are in place, all that is
needed is a simple hook made from a straight pin,
one for the bottom rear of the canopy base and one
for the floor of the fuselage, and a rubber band.
6. Locate the positions for the two wing-joining eye-
hooks, drill small diameter guide holes into the W-1
ribs and screw the hooks in place. A pair of pliers are
used to slightly open these hooks so that #62 rubber
bands or a spring, if you wish, can be used to join the
panels to the fuselage.
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