Top Flite Antares - Manual (Page 13)

18. Glue rib W 3B in place Glue rib W 2B in place at the
correct root angle Remove the wing panels from
your building board.
19 In this step you are going to "final sand" the correct
wing root angle into each panel T h e cor rect angle, as
shown o n t h e p l a n s is imparted to the root ribs when
the tip, at W 20, is blocked up to 2" off of your work
surface Take pains to firmly position each panel on
the edge of your work surface before sanding this
angle into the root ribs—note th at the leading edge of
the wing, when viewed from the top is 90 to the root.
Once satisfied with the positioning of the wing panel,
use a large, f l a t sanding block with heavy sandpaper
to sand the root angle into each wing root
20. Glue ply wing root ribs W 1 in place to wing roots,
accurately lining-up the main wing tube holes with
the cavity between W 21 and W-22 The trailing edge
o f t h i s s h o r t e n e d n b e n d s a t t h e f l a p h i n g e l i n e R u n a
1/8" dia drill bit through the rear incidence pin tube
hold in W 1 and through W 2B Locate and epoxy the
1/2" sq maple wing hook mounting blocks in place
against the inside of W 2B—note this block is posi-
tioned 9/16" behind W-22
21. Locate and get ready, the main 5/16" I D x 2-5/8" brass
main wing tubes, the 5/16 dia main wing rod, the rear
3/32" I D x 1-3/16" incidence tubes, the 3/32" dia x 4-5/8"
M W incidence pin, W 23 s (ply, four) Also, in the
small bag of wood p a r t s locate the four pieces of 1/16"
x 3/8" x 2-1/2" ply (these are spar box "fillers", see cross
sections at the wing root)
First rough-up the outside surface of all four of the
brass tubes with 120 grit sandpaper Next you need to
cap-off one end of each of these tubes to present
epoxy from seeping inside when they're mounted.
The easiest way to do this is to hold one end of the
tube over a piece of bond paper and apply CA adhe-
sive to the joint When set use a small sanding block
to sand away excess, leaving just the capped end of
the tubing Next, trim, fit and glue the bottom 1/16" x
3/8" x 2-1/2" spar box "filler' in place on top of the
bottom spar, between W-1 and W-4B Trim and sand
the four W-23's to fit in place but do not glue yet
We are now going to install the wing tubes, followed
by using the two wing rods to f i x t u r e " their final
locations Start by mixing a batch of slow drying
epoxy (use Hobby Poxy Formula 2) Apply glue liber-
ally to t h e i n s i d o o f t h e s par box where the main wing
tubesfit—fill i t t o the bottom of the hole inW 1 Insert
the main wing tubes, capped end first, through W-1.
Try to make sure there are no air bubbles Insert, but
do not glue yet the rear incidence pin wing tubes in
place, capped end first through 3/32" 1 Place the two
wing panels on your work surface with the twoW-1's
facing each other Prop one panel up at the tip 2", slide
the two wing rods i n p l a c e i n t h c i r tubes in this panel
Slip the other panel onto the wing rods and prop its
tip up to 2 also Make sure the two W 1 r o o t ribs are
firmly in place on the work surface (use weights, if
needed) and that they are parallel (Note, it is not
necessary to push the two panels together tightly,
just enough to "bottom out" the two rods is suffi-
cient ) Apply epoxy liberally on and about the rear
incidence tubes, f i t t h e W 23 s i n place—hit them with
a little CA to keep them from moving—and fill the
cavity between them to the top with epoxy Note that
we have not yet filled the main wing tube cavity, this
will be done in due time Allow this entire assembly to
cure overnight.
22 Remove the wing rods from the wing panels Slip the
F 10 ribs in place over the tubes and up against the
fuselage sides Use your sanding block to bring these
tubes flush with the outside surface of the F-10's Do
the same thing to the protruding ends of the tubes
showing through W 1 Clean the edges with an X-
acto blade to allow wing rod clearance Insert the
wing rods into the fuselage tubes and slip the wing
panels in place You may have to trim a small amount
of the rod's lengths to achieve proper seating—a
carbide cut-off wheel or a grinder will do the job but
do not cut-off too much, we want the tubes filled with
rod If any touch-up sanding is necessaryto achieves
smooth, flush fit between F-10's and W-1's,do it now.
Pull the panels out a little way on the rods to expose
th face of F-10, apply a few "dots" of glue to the
F-10's, push the panels back in place against them to
allow to dry This tack glues the F-10's accurately in
place for final sanding
23. With the panels still in place on the fuselage you must
now determine the exit locations for the flap drive
cables in relationship to your servo and its output
arm Note on the plans that these exit locations are
"staggered" to allow one servo to control both flaps.
As viewed from the top, install your flap servo on its
rails, directly on the centerline of the fuselage Attach
the output arm to th servo with it pointing directly
fore and aft along the same centerline The output
arm's clevis holes, in this position, is the mark(s) that
you're looking for Make a pencil mark on the tops of
the F-10 ribs at right angles to these two holes.
Remove the panels, along with the tack-glued F-10's,
from the fuselage
24. Use a sharp pencil to draw the oblong slot in F-10
onto W 1 With the wing panel flat on your work
surface, use a 90 triangle and pencil to pick-up the
marks you just made on top of F-10 and transferthem
to W-1, inside of the oblong slot With an 1/8" drill bit,
drill the flap exit holes through W-1, W-2B and W-3B,
as shown on the top view of the plans Carefully make
a hole in each rib, as shown on the plans, to "snake"
the flap tubing out to W 8B Going back to the wing
root once again, drill a small 1/32" dia guide hole,
inside of the oblong slot, at the front, through W-1
and into the maple hook block Make sure this hole
location is far enough behind the front of the slot to
allow clearance of the wing hooks into the slot.
25 Prepare the remaining plastic tubes (2 @ 48" and 1 @
36") for installation into the wings Rough-up their
outer surfaces with sandpaper and cut the 36" piece
into two 18" lengths—these are for the flaps As
shown on the plans, 'snake" the flap tubes through
3/32" 1 a n d o u t t o t h e W 8B location, cut the tube leaving
about one extra inch at the end (outboard) for fitting
purposes later The inboard end should be flush with
t h e f a c e o f W 1 Install the longeraileron tubing inthe
same manner, again leaving about one extra inch at
the outboard end Mix a batch of epoxy and carefully
glue the tubing rib joints of each rib, on each side.
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