Top Flite Phasoar 035 - Manual (Page 13)

sheet. Once again tape the rudder to the
fin, right side only. Use a sharp #11
blade to now cut a 1/32" wide slot in the
rudder's leading edge, at the bottom, on a
plane corresponding to the rudder tube's
exit point on the fuselage. Once the slot
is made to your satisfaction, t r i a l - f i t the
horn in place and trim as needed to get a
proper fit. Do not glue the horn in place
until after the model is covered.
4. Assemble the wing to the fuselage and cinch
it down with the wing screw. In this step
we want to rough-cut and f i t the forward
and rear wing/fuselage fairings to the
wing's center section. The remaining
length of radio hatch block balsa w i l l be
used for this. First either carve or use
a Dremel tool to route out the bottom
mating surface of each of these blocks; cut
and fit. Bevel the rear block to match the
fuselage (viewed from the side) and then
use your #11 blade to carve out a space for
F-12 when the block is held in place.
Also, the head of the screw w i l l indent the
bottom of this block and therefore give you
the location to d r i l l a 1/4" dia. hole to
allow the screw head to seat against F-12.
Once you're satisfied with how the two
blocks f i t onto the wing and to the
fuselage, concentrate on the top view. The
forward should be sanded to a sort of h a l f -
round shape, carrying through the shape of
the hatch block. The rear block gently
curves in to the center line of the wing to
a point about 1-1/2" from the t r a i l i n g
edge. Glue the blocks in place to the top
of the wing w h i l e the wing is s t i l l
attached to the fuselage. Protect the wing
sheeting around the edges of these blocks
w i t h masking tape; sand to a final shape.
Use f i l l e r to f i l l e t the blocks to the
wing. Lightly sand, and you're finished.
Remove the wing from the fuselage.
5. Use a sharp razor blade to remove the
finished radio hatch block. With the
battery/servo compartment now open, install
your servo mounting rails. Note on the
plans that we've used the remainder of the
1/8" x 3/16" spruce spar stock for these.
You may wish to use ply. Install these
rails in the approximate positions shown on
the plans, w i t h the servo's output arms
lined-up w i t h the rudder and elevator tube
ends protruding through F-4. w i t h servos
in place, cut the 1/4" x 3/8" x 4" spruce
micro switch mount to f i t as illustrated
on the drawing. D r i l l and attach the two
1/4" x 1/4" x 3/8" maple blocks to the
mount with #2 x 3/8 wood screws. Next
d r i l l two holes in the mount for the micro
switch, and mount with two 2-56 x 1/2"
screws and nuts. Set the assembly in
position as shown on the drawing. When
proper contact is made w i t h switch and
servo arm, glue in place. Once satisfied,
servos can be removed.
6. Before covering take a few minutes to
"ventilate" the various structures; wing,
fin (above T-1's), stab halves and the
rudder. Ventilating these components
allows the heated a i r (formed when
covering) to escape the various sealed
compartments (between rib bays, etc.)
rather than expanding and "ballooning" the
covering.
7. For the wing, use a 3/32" dia. d r i l l bit,
hand-held, to d r i l l one hole through each
rib, in the center, just behind the spar
location. Do this from W-7, at the tip.
a l l the way through the inner-most W-2 rib,
beneath the center section sheeting. Using
the same bit, d r i l l a hole through the
bottom sheeting, just behind the spars on
each side of the W-1's.
8. Use a 1/16" dia. d r i l l bit, again hand-
held, to now do the same thing to the fin
(and also through the 3/16" sq. brace
between the tops of the T-1's), rudder and
stab halves. On the rudder, d r i l l a small
exit hole on the very bottom, behind the
horn location. On the stab halves, d r i l l
the exit holes through the rear diagonal
3/16" sq. piece.
9. Final-check entire airplane for any flaws
or problems. If you find any, fix them
now.
10. Since the stabilator halves slip in place
using two 1/16" dia. steel pins, there is
a need to be able to retain them. This can
be done a couple of ways. The first is to
simply allow the pins to rust by leaving
them outdoors for a night or two. This
makes them press-fit into the stab half
tubes. Another way is to use a low-tack
adhesive (3-M #77 Spray Cement) to coat the
wires, thus making them a b i t "sticky." In
any event, don't permanently glue these in
place since eventually the need w i l l arise
for disassembling the stabilator halves
from the fin.
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