Spohn 301-PS - Manual (Page 2)

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• Install the Spohn transmission crossmember, make the (4) bolts hand tight at this
time. Once in place, line up the transmission bushing with the mounting hole in the
crossmember and install bolt(s). Note: If you’re using a stock type replacement
transmission bushing that has a male stud hanging out of it, you can not use this type
of mount with some of our crossmembers. We recommend using a polyurethane
transmission mount, or if you want to stay with rubber, get a transmission mount from
a 1965 Chevelle (available from any local auto parts store), this mount uses two bolts
just like a polyurethane mount does. If using a one bolt transmission mount place it
through the center hole in the crossmember. If using a polyurethane mount, or an
early GM type mount as mentioned above, use the outer two holes in the
crossmember.
• Raise the Spohn torque arm and slide the rear-housing mount over the rear housing
mounting pad. Align the holes and install the two original bolts first REMOVING the
washers from the bolts. DO NOT use the washers if using the stock bolts, this is
important. Make the nuts hand tight only.
• Line the front torque arm mount (bushing or rod end) hole up with the top hole of the
two rotator plates on the crossmember front mount and install the supplied 5/8” bolt
and lock nut hand tight.
Be sure to install the two bolts from the
top down, do not install the long bolts from the bottom up. If you were ever to lose a
nut, the bolt would drop out. You may have to support the car on the frame with jack
stands, and then lower the rear with the floor jack to get the bolts installed from the
top. Once installed, put the car back at ride height.
• Tighten the two bolts that secure the torque arm to the rear housing.
• Tighten the four bolts that secure the transmission cross member to the frame of the
car.
• Tighten the transmission mount bolt(s).
• IMPORTANT: All of the bolts and jam nuts on the Spohn torque arm are shipped
hand tight to allow for play when installing, they must all be tightened at this time!
TIP: To keep jam nuts from loosening over time from road vibrations, apply a drop of
removable strength
• We have tightened the two bolts that secure the two rear rod ends to the rear housing
mounting bracket. If you ever need to disassemble these the bolt head uses a 1-1/2”
wrench and the nut uses a 1-7/16” wrench. If you ever remove the top bolt from the
threaded hole be sure to apply RED loctite on to the threads when re-assembling.
(Blue) Loctite onto the threads, and then tighten the jam nuts.
• Tighten the top front rotator mount bolt.
• IMPORTANT: The BOTTOM
• Read the attached pinion angle adjustment instructions. After setting your pinion
angle, tighten the three jam nuts at the rear of the torque arm with a 1-1/2” wrench.
The two jam nuts towards the rear of the arm that secure the rod ends are right hand
threaded and tighten clockwise as normal. The jam nut in front of the pinion angle
adjuster that tightens against the lower torque arm tube is left hand threaded, and
thus tightens by turning it counter-clockwise.
front mount rotator connection. The bolt and lock nut that
secure the bottom of the front mount’s rotator plates should not be over tightened.
You have been supplied with 5/8” grade 8 bolts and special “super” lock nuts.
Wherever you stop turning these nuts they will stay locked in position, they will not
back off the bolt. The bottom connection of the front rotator mount should be
tightened to 50 ft/lbs. If going by feel, bring the nut in until you feel it start to snug
tight against and then stop.