Model Shipways 2021 - Manual (Page 7)

It may seem strange to begin an instruc-
tion manual with directions on applying
the finishes to the model. Not so! Much
time and effort can be saved, and a more
professional result can be obtained, if
the finishing process is carried out dur-
ing construction. Paint the various small
parts before they are installed on the
model.
The painting sequence must be a well
thought out procedure, otherwise you
may have difficulty as you proceed with
assembly. For example, it is easier to
paint a cabin or hatch coaming before it
is glued to the deck. Put the parts aside
until they are ready to be installed.
Proper timing in application of finishes
and the use of masking tape to define
painted edges should eliminate unsight-
ly glue marks and splotchy stained sur-
faces. In the end, following these general
suggestions will be to your advantage.
1. Preliminaries
Before painting, rub down all external
surfaces with 220 grit dry sandpaper
and wipe off all dust thoroughly. Give
all unprimed surfaces two coats of
primer. A very light sanding is recom-
mended after the last coat of primer, but
don't sand down to bare wood. With
clean hands, a soft brush, and a clean,
soft rag or tack rag, gently dust and
wipe off the hull.
Choosing paint: For hand brushing, use
a flat finish paint. Glossy finishes are not
desirable. A satin finish will give the
most satisfactory results, but the under-
coat (primer) paint should be dead flat.
Floquil marine color paints are ideal. If
you object to solvent based paints, Flo-
quil's Polly-S is an excellent water-based
acrylic and brushes and covers well.
Clear finishes are available for both
types of paint so you can get the gloss or
flatness you desire.
Masking off surfaces: It can be very
tricky to mask off the surfaces you don't
want to paint. Some brands of masking
tape are absolutely no good because
they allow paint to bleed under them, so
be selective. The Scotch Brand remov-
able magic tape is a good tape. The ad-
hesive is low-tack, the same adhesive
used for their Post-It note paper. A
graphic design tape, such as the Chart
Pak brand, is also good but the adhesive
grips rather securily. If you use it, make
sure your paint is thoroughly dry. It is
available in widths as fine as 1/32" and
1/64". Black plastic electrician's tape is
also acceptable.
A secret to good masking is to lightly
paint a clear finish along the tape first.
This seals the edges so the color paints
won't run under the tape. Floquil flat
finish or crystal cote will do the trick.
Spray Painting: Spraying techniques
work best with fast drying lacquers. The
Floquil paints spray very well when
thinned about 25%, used in an airbrush
such as the Testors and Badger units.
You will also find many brands of paint
available in aerosol cans which give
good results. Test them on a wood block
as previously described before using
them on the model. The aerosol cans put
out much more paint than an airbrush,
so you must spray lightly and fast. Don't
let the paint build too heavily, or you
will have a mess of runs.
Brush painting: Painting with fine, soft
bristle brushes is probably best for the
beginner. And many highly skilled
modelmakers prefer the brushed on
technique because a brushed surface,
with its fine imperfections, imparts a
more life like appearance to the model.
Choosing Brushes: Brushes must be very
soft and of the highest quality. Artist
grade sable or synthetics are the best.
They should be a littler wider for paint-
ing the surface. A brush that's too nar-
row will cause excessive streaking of the
finish.
Brushing Technique: When applying
paint or stain with a brush, lay down one
thin coat in a single stroke, then move the
brush over to coat the adjacent areas with
single strokes. Never make repeat strokes
over fresh paint or you will tear up the
surface of the first brush stroke. Wait
until the paint has dried to a hard finish
before applying a second coat.
2. TAURUS Color Scheme
Color schemes on tugs varied consider-
ably. Here are some of the more com-
mon ones.
Hull: Black, or dull or weathered black;
Boston tugs often were white.
Cap rails: Always black.
Deck: Well maintained but not fancy;
use a greyish-umber, or teak stain.
Cabin and pilot house sides: Red was a
favorite; Boston owned tugs may have a
cherry or mahogany stained cabin to
contrast with white hull. The box photo
shows a cabin with mahogany for half
the cabin and natural or oak finish for
the upper half.
Cabin and pilot house top: Canvas cov-
ered, paint light grey or buff.
Doors and windows: Bright varnished
oak.
PAINTING & STAINING THE MODEL
Bulwarks inboard: Buff, grey or red
oxide.
Stern grating: Dark brown holes and
lighter brown top surface.
Quarter bitts: Black or red oxide
Stack, rail stanchions, and deck plates:
Black
Running lights: Brown box; port light is
red, starboard light is green.
Eagle on pilot house: Gold
Boat: White with tan or light grey cover.
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