Top Flite S.E.5A - Manual (Page 12)

as a reference) When satisfied, run some Titebond into the holes at the strut-fuselage
joint When this glue has dried and the top wing will not move out of alignment
remove the bottom wing so that access can be had to the inside of the fuselage and
liberally glue the struts to F-8.
51. At this point in the construction, all the most difficult work is done; now
we re coming down the home stretch'
Snap the rear cabane struts into the top wing fittings Mark length and angle down
to the stub wire projecting from the fuselage Disengage strut A good way to
unsnap the ball is to insert the blade of a wide screwdriver in the gap between the
wing and the end of the hardwood strut Twist the screwdriver and the fittings will
disengage Cut and drill lower end to take wire Replace and remove struts, trim
ming as necessary until the fit is right Finally, with strut off the fuselage, fill holes
in struts with glue and slip into place on the wire snapping top fittings together
to hold alignment perfect while glue sets When dry, remove balsa height gauges
52. Fit the four interplane struts First cut the struts to exact length to fit
between the nylon plates Then cut off 3/16" of length drill struts and glue ball
fittings in place Constantly check that wings are parallel and at same incidence
(L E top wing to L E bottom wing distance should be same as T E top to T E
bottom)
53. Install all solder-tabs in position to be used later for wire rigging at-
tachment
54. Solder the axle into the landing-gear plates. Trim the shaped hardwood
axle fairing to proper length and angle, and glue to the legs with the axle running
in the groove visible from the top
A completely rigid landing gear is, in our experience, by far the best for this type
of model The small amount of springing incorporated into the axles of the full-
size aircraft of the period, has proven of no value in cushioning landing shocks on
models, and in fact, causes ground looping problems on take-off
55. The scale propeller is supplied as a shaped blank ready to be carved to
section Carving propellers is an acquired art If you doubt your ability to make
a good Job have an experienced modelling friend do it for you The many exterior
details may now be built and installed temporarily, such as gun rail and gun,
cockpit detail and so on
Smooth off rib edges, etc., and remove any bumps of glue that would spoil the
covering Job
COVERING
Disassemble interplane struts and wings from model and remove nylon fittings
from wing panels Remove from the model all tack glued items such as fin and
rudder, guns, cowls, headrest, windscreen, etc. Remove engine, R/C equipment
and also the pushrods if possible
Completely disassemble the whole model as far as possible into its separate
elements After again making sure that all structure is smooth, we are ready to
cover the model
WARNING: Some of the heavier fabric covering materials, such as nylon,
heavy silks and blends of silk and nylon, are not suitable for models of this type
They have too much shrinking power and will warp the structure Use only regular
lightweight or Japanese silk to cover this model!
Start by giving all wood which will come into contact with the silk two coats
of clear dope Use dope liberally, allowing each coat to dry
Sand doped areas lightly to remove the fuzz raised by the dope
Cut panels of silk to oversize and lay on model Paint around outlines with
clear dope The dope will penetrate the silk and form a bond with the dope pre
viously applied Stretch out all wrinkles as you go
Do not be concerned if the covering is a little loose. It does not have to be
drumtight at this time—the important thing is that there should be no wrinkles
or folds
When the dope has dried, lightly spray the silk with water An airbrush or
perfume spray will be ideal When the silk dries it should have shrunk quite tight
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