Top Flite S.E.5A - Manual (Page 6)

13. Cut proper size hole in 1/4" phenolic engine plate for the engine you are
going to use. Drill holes to suit and mount the engine. Fit the plate up to the
fuselage (remove the needle valve temporarily if necessary) and when you have
it fitting snugly down on the mounts, drill through plate and mounts simultaneously
to insure accuracy for the mounting screws. Screw plate in place using the 3/4"
woodscrews provided. Slide fuel tank in position and connect to engine with fuel
tubing.
14. It is a good plan at this time to install the R/C equipment and the pushrod
to the throttle. Due to the enormous variations in available equipment it is not
possible to give precise diagrams for every R/C equipment installation: however,
the motor-control servo should be fitted between F-8 and F-ll. In the original pro-
totype models, a Kraft proportional KP-4B outfit was used, and it was found very
convenient to mount the three KPS-10 servos for engine, elevator and rudder side-
by-side on two 1/8" x 3/8" basswood cross-spacers, so that all 3 servos were between
F-8 and F-ll. In this case the radio receiver was glued to the rear face of F-11A
via a small foam rubber pad.
The battery will fit in the space between F-5 and F-8. While it is true than an in-
stallation where the servos are ahead of the receiver is uncommon, this was one of
the cases where it was warranted. So plan your own equipment installation at this
stage. If you are a beginner at this, get the help of an experienced R/C builder!
We cannot put too much emphasis on this point. It is probably true to say that a
very high percentage of equipment malfunctions can be directly attributed to sloppy
or defective installation. Remember a long life for your model (and the safety of
spectators) depends vitally on good equipment installation.
15. After connecting the throttle to the motor-control servo, check for easy
frictionless movement over the whole range of throttle travel. When satisfied, re-
move the engine, tank and servos before continuing with building, so as not to get
any balsa dust, etc. in delicate equipment.
16. READ THIS COMPLETE INSTRUCTION BEFORE STARTING.
The sheet panels F-23, 24, 25, 26 and 27 can now be glued in place. This may
appear at first to be a very difficult job to do without breaking the pieces. In truth,
it is very easy as long as the correct method is followed closely. We will explain
using one example piece, and the rest of the panels all follow the same general
idea. This is how to proceed: —
Take one F-23 piece and glue the lower edge to the right fuselage side (use regular
balsa cement). Let this joint dry thoroughly! If you try to continue too soon, the
joint will come apart and you'll be back at the start, and have to re-glue and wait
again. When dry, thoroughly dampen the outside of F-23, being careful not to wet
the glue joint just made. You can wet the wood with a cloth and water. After
a few moments, try pulling the sheet around the formers that it will be glued to.
You will find that it will bend to the required curve very easily. Spread glue (this
time use Titebond or white glue—not balsa cement) on the edges of F-8 and F-ll,
and pin the wrapped sheet firmly to the formers to set. Masking tape also can be
used to get firm contact.
The other panels are done in the same way. Glue F-26 in place before F-27. Wet
and attach one panel at a time. Start at the front again on the left-hand side. Notice
the panels are of slightly over-width as cut—this is to allow final trimming of the
left-hand pieces to exactly fit the right-hand ones already in position.
About the only panel that may give a little trouble is F-24 on the left side. (This
is why we had you do the right panels first—to get experience!) This is because
of the tight radius at the front over F-11A; so do not be concerned if a small split
develops here. After the panel has dried you can run some glue in the split or fill
with vinyl-spackle (purchase this at a hardware store). Notice also, that a small
clearance-cutaway must be made in F-25 and F-24 for the rear-strut wire. Any
oversize of these holes can be filled later with vinyl-spackle.
17. From the 3/16" sq. supplied, cut seven pieces about 11-1/2" long and eight
pieces about 6" long. These will be the rear stringers. Trim one of the long pieces
to exactly fit from F-14A to the tail block and glue it into the notches in the center
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