Nikon D200 - Manual (Page 7)

ambient light in the photo and prevent inky black backgrounds. Set it shorter to prevent
subject motion blur.
This is brilliant. In the old days we'd have to use Manual exposure to set this to a
reasonable number like 1/8. The problem with using the slow mode, explained below, is
that in dark locations the shutter may stay open a stupid long time and ruin the shot. This
Custom Setting lets you have the camera adjust itself automatically and stop at the longest
time with which you feel comfortable.
I usually use Normal mode, since if I don't I can get some scary long exposures if I'm not
expecting them in the dark.
Red-Eye (eyeball icon): I never use this. It shines an obnoxious light in your subject's eyes
for a couple of seconds and then releases the shutter. Use this only if you have some
people you want to get rid of at a party. WARNING: If I set this mode by accident it bugs
the heck out of me, because the camera doesn't go off until several seconds after I've
pressed the shutter, but I've set no self timer! It doesn't do much to reduce redeye anyway.
Skip this mode. You won't know you've set it, since there is no in-camera indication.
SLOW (called SLOW on the top LCD): This mode is very useful. It lets the shutter stay
open as long as it needs to so dim ambient light can expose properly with flash. Of course
if it's dark these exposure times can get stupid long, in which case you want to use the
setting I covered under Normal.
In daylight SLOW is the same as NORMAL, since exposure times are short. SLOW
unlocks the camera in P and A exposure modes to make exposures as long as it wants to
in dim light.
Have a look at most issues of National Geographic and you'll see many indoor shots made
in this mode. The background exposes correctly, people may be blurred, and a burst of
flash freezes them along with the blurry ghost images.
Normal and SLOW do the same thing in S and M exposure modes, since you or the
camera may select any shutter speed in these modes regardless of flash sync.
Default apertures and shutter speeds are unchanged in Program mode, unlike in the D70.
Red-Eye SLOW (eye and SLOW icon): This is the SLOW mode and redeye. I don't use it
for the same reason I don't use Redeye mode.
REAR (called REAR on the top LCD): Normally the flash goes off the instant the shutter
opens. This looks stupid if you have a motion blur as part of your photo. Select REAR
mode to have the flash go off as the shutter closes.
Another reason to select REAR is because the flash goes off at the end of the exposure.
People presume photos are made the instant a flash fires, then leave. If you use REAR
mode with long exposures they'll stay put until your long exposure completes.
REAR doesn't do anything with short exposures. REAR also engages SLOW, but SLOW
doesn't light up on the LCD until you take your finger off the flash mode button.
Trick Flash Exposure Lock Mode: I set my FUNC button in the Custom Menus to lock
flash exposure and eliminate preflashes which make people blink.
PDF by Paul Deakin - 7 - © 2006 KenRockwell.com