Operational conditions – Whirlpool Residential Gas Water Heater with the Flame Lock Safety System User Manual

Page 21

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21

Operational Conditions

Condensation

Moisture from the products of combustion condenses on the

tank surface and the outside jacket of the water heater and

forms drops of water which may fall onto the burner or other

hot surfaces. This will produce a “sizzling” or “frying” noise.

NOTE: This condensation is normal and should not be

confused with a leaking tank. Condensation may increase or

decrease at different times of the year.
High efficient energy saver water heaters will produce

larger amounts of condensation on initial start-up or when

a large amount of hot water is being used. NOTE: Do not

confuse this with a “tank leak”. Once the water reaches a

temperature of 120°F and the tank warms up (usually 1-2

hours), the condensation will stop.
IMPORTANT: It is always recommended that a suitable

metal drain pan be installed under the water heater

to protect the area from water damage resulting from

normal condensation production, a leaking tank or piping

connections. Refer to “Location Requirements” on page

4. Under no circumstances is the manufacturer to be held

responsible for any water damage in connection with this

water heater.

Water Heater Sounds

During the normal operation of the water heater, sounds or

noises may be heard. These noises are common and may

result from the following:
1. Normal expansion and contraction of metal parts during

periods of heat-up and cool-down.

2. Condensation causes sizzling and popping within the

burner area and should be considered normal.

3. Sediment buildup in the tank bottom will create varying

amounts of noise and may cause premature tank failure.

Drain and flush the tank as directed under “Draining and
Flushing”.

Smoke/Odor

The water heater may give off a small amount of smoke

and odor during the initial start-up of the unit. This is due to

the burning off of oil from metal parts of a new unit and will
disappear after a few minutes of operation.

Safety Shut-off

This water heater is designed to automatically shut-off in the

event of the following:
1. The pilot flame is extinguished for any reason.

2. The water temperature exceeds 189°F (87°C) for 155°F

models or 199°F (93°C) for 180°F models. See the data

plate for your model.

3. Excessive combustion chamber temperatures.

4. The ignition of flammable vapors.
A thermopile is used to determine if a pilot flame is present,

and will shut off the gas supply to the main burner and the

pilot if the flame is absent. This unit is also equipped with a

thermal switch, designed to shut off the gas supply in the event

the heater has been exposed to flammable vapors (spilled

gasoline or paint fumes for example), poor combustion caused

by a blocked vent or insufficient combustion air. If the switch

opens, check the flame-trap for signs of high temperature

(blue or black discoloration), and inspect your installation for

any problems with venting or combustion air (See Pilot Light

Troubleshooting Flowchart on page 29). Reset the switch by

depressing the small button in the center of the switch.

IMPORTANT: Correct any issues prior to resetting the switch.

Contact the Product Service and Support Department
for service information at: 1-877-817-6750.
A temperature limit switch or ECO (Energy Cut Off) sensor

located in the gas control valve\thermostat, is used to shut off the

water heater if the water temperature exceeds 189°F (87°C) for

155°F models or 199°F (93°C) for 180°F models. See the data

plate for your model.
The Diagnostic Status Light will flash a code indicating

an “Overheat Failure” (4 Flashes). See “Operating the

Temperature Control System.” If the ECO has functioned the

gas control valve/thermostat should be replaced by a qualified

person. Contact your local dealer for service information.

Anode Rod/Water Odor

Each water heater contains at least one anode rod,

which will slowly deplete (due to electrolysis) prolonging

the life of the water heater by protecting the glass-lined

tank from corrosion. Adverse water quality, hotter water

temperatures, high hot water usage, hydronic heating

devices, and water softening methods can increase

the rate of anode rod depletion. Once the anode rod

is depleted, the tank will start to corrode, eventually

developing a leak.
Certain water conditions will cause a reaction between the

anode rod and the water. The most common complaint

associated with the anode rod is a “rotten egg smell”

produced from the presence of hydrogen sulfide gas

dissolved in the water.

IMPORTANT: Do not remove this rod permanently as it will

void any warranties. A special anode rod may be available

if water odor or discoloration occurs.

NOTE: This rod may reduce but not eliminate water odor

problems. The water supply system may require special

filtration equipment from a water conditioning company to

successfully eliminate all water odor problems.
Artificially softened water is exceedingly corrosive because

the process substitutes sodium ions for magnesium and

calcium ions. The use of a water softener may decrease

the life of the water heater tank.
The anode rod should be removed from the water heater

tank every 3 years for inspection.

NOTE: artificially softened water requires the anode rod to

be inspected annually.
The following are typical (but not all) signs of a depleted

anode rod:

The majority of the rods diameter is less than 3/8”.

Significant sections of the support wire (approx. 1/3 or

more of the anode rod’s length) are visible.

If the anode rod show signs of either

or both it should be replaced. NOTE:

Whether re-installing or replacing the

anode rod, check for any leaks and

immediately correct if found.
In replacing the anode:

Turn off gas supply to the water heater.

1.

Shut off the water supply and

2.

open a nearby hot water faucet to

depressurize the water tank.
Drain approximately 5 gallons of

3.

water from tank. (Refer to “Draining

and Flushing” for proper procedures).

Close drain valve.
Remove old anode rod.

4.

Use Teflon® tape or approved pipe

5.

sealant on threads and install new

anode rod.
Turn on water supply and open a nearby hot water

6.

faucet to purge air from water system.
Check for any leaks and immediately correct any if

7.

found.
Restart the water heater as directed in this manual. See

8.

the Repair Parts Illustration for anode rod location.

TEFLON

®

is a registered trademark of E.I. Du Pont De Nemours and Company.

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