American Expedition Vehicles Tummy Tucker – TJ Rubicon models - Manual (Page 3)

Installation Instructions: Tummy Tucker™ – TJ Rubicon models
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Fig. 4
Fig. 5
repeat this step if you find that you do not have enough clearance during the check after step11. When
finished, lower the jack and replace it to the rear-output area (to be out of the way for installation of the
TT skid). Remove the dimple tool from the top of the t-case.
Step 4+: Bellhousing Clearance - 42RLE 4-speed auto Only. Wranglers with the 4-speed auto require
clearancing between the top of the bellhousing and the floor/tunnel. After the dimple has been created,
lower the t-case until there is about 3/8” of clearance where the dimple was made, then visually check
the top of the bellhousing (it’s visible from the driver’s side.) There is a longitudinal rib on the top of the
bellhousing that may be touching the lateral ‘pinch flange’ on the body where the dash panel (‘firewall’)
meets the tunnel. The body flange can be bent up out of the way using a long pry bar from the driver’s
side. You will confirm if there is clearance on the test drive after installation is complete. You may need
to pry for more clearance at that time.
Step 5: Reposition T-case Shift Linkage Bracket. Because the TT raises the rear of the powertrain, the
TJ’s body-mounted T-case shift linkage geometry is affected and must be corrected (NOTE: this step is
NOT required if you have a 1-1.25” body lift). Correction is done by lowering the powertrain-side pivot for
the relay rod until it is again level with the body side. On ‘03+ TJ’s, the transmission bracket is made
from round stock with ‘smashed’ end tabs and a
flattened area for the green grommet. You should
have been supplied with a small plate and u-bolt that
were included with the transmission adapter bracket.
To remove the stock bracket, pry the relay rod away
from the trans until it pops out of the green plastic
grommet in the bracket (if the grommet stays on the
rod, it is difficult to remove – you may have to slit it
with a razor – it will still work fine when reinstalled
later), then remove the upper two driver’s-side
t/case-to-trans nuts (9/16” socket) to remove the
bracket. Remove the green grommet by gently
prying it out with a small screwdriver. Next, attach the plate to the stock bracket using the supplied 7/16”
bolt. The plate goes on the transmission side of the factory bracket; place the bolt through the large
round hole in the plate (the one with more material around the hole), then the original grommet hole
(from the non-trans side). Next place the small u-bolt over the lower leg of the stock bracket and through
the two slotted holes in the plate – secure with washers and nuts on the plate-side. Install the green
grommet into the new hole on the plate from the non-trans side – it should now look like the bracket in
figure 4. Re-install the bracket/plate assembly to the t-case bolts. Snap the relay rod end into the green
grommet. After installing the TT skid in step 11, you should be able to confirm that the rod is roughly
horizontal again – this is the key to allowing the linkage to work properly and be able to select all ranges
without binding or interference.
Step 6: Prepare Rubicon Locker Pumps for remounting.
This is the most involved ‘custom’ part of installing a TT on
your Rubicon TJ, but the results will be extremely well
protected locker pumps without having to do a lot of custom
wiring, etc. Your Rubicon TJ’s locker pumps are mounted to
the gold bracket that you removed from the left-rear of the
stock skid plate. While they will remain attached to this
bracket, the wiring and hoses that connect to it will be
rearranged to allow the pumps to be mounted along the
driver’s frame rail, above the TT skid plate, where they
cannot be damaged by rocks or branches, etc. To make
these instructions easier to follow, note that the pump that