American Expedition Vehicles Tummy Tucker – TJ Rubicon models - Manual (Page 9)

Installation Instructions: Tummy Tucker™ – TJ Rubicon models
Nth30116 v4.doc page 9 of 13 www.aev-conversions.com
Fig. 14
Fig. 15
Tip: The easiest tool to reach and loosen/tighten the set screw with is a ¼”-drive ratchet with a 6”
extension and short-type ½” socket.
gap and the bracket is less than ½” from the drive shaft, you should ‘router’ the hole in the bracket a bit
more so that the pump bracket can be moved as far as possible away from the drive shaft. Once
properly mounted, the view from the front should look like figure 13.
Step 14: Attach Isolators to TT. With the powertrain resting on the TT, check to see if the threaded
holes in the isolators are visible through the corresponding countersunk holes in the TT skid. If they are
not, jack up the powertrain at the t-case output again to take some of the load off of the isolators, then
reach above the TT skid and slide and/or twist them
until the holes roughly line up, then lower the
powertrain fully onto the TT again. Now align the holes
enough to start the bolts by inserting a small
screwdriver though the TT holes and prying the
isolators as shown in figure 14 until each hole lines up,
then start a 5/16” flathead bolt by hand into the nuts on
each isolator. It helps to get one bolt started in each
isolator before trying to pry/align the other hole. Once
all four bolts are started, torque them to 25 ft-lbs.
Step 15: Adjust T-case linkage. Even though the t-
case linkage relay rod position has been corrected for
the TT installation, you will still need to re-adjust the
linkage for proper t-case shifting. Begin by loosening
the ½”-headed lock screw on the upper link (the one
attached to the lever coming from the handle inside the
Jeep – see figure 15) – make sure that it slides easily
on the rod. Next, manually shift the t-case into 4-Low
by pushing the t-case-mounted lever all the way to the
back (you may gently confirm that it is engaged by
starting and running the Jeep a few feet – but no
driving! Make sure the in-cab lever is in the 4-Low
position, but has some clearance to the back of the
plastic bezel, then re-tighten the lock screw. You can
confirm proper shifting after the install is complete and
repeat this procedure if necessary.
Step 16: Final Assembly. If all static clearances are at least ¼” (3/8” above t/case on autos), you may
tighten the bolts on the top of each isolator (that were finger tight through the slotted holes – they are
9/16” hex). These can be difficult to reach, but will only have to be done once since subsequent removal
of the TT can be done by removing the four 5/16” flathead bolts under the isolators. The driver’s side
bolt is easiest to reach from the front of the TT (under the front driveshaft). The passenger side bolt is
usually easiest to reach from the rear for automatics (between the t-case and catalyst or sometimes over
the pipe behind the catalyst), while manuals may be easier from the front.
Step 17: Readjust Rear Axle Pinion Angle. Since all TT’s raise the t-case position relative to the chassis
for maximum clearance – your rear driveshaft angle is increased as compared to before the TT
installation – this is due to not only raising the output, but also ‘flattening’ the powertrain angle (this angle
Note that if you are installing this TT with an Nth° long-arm suspension, do not follow this step as the
pumps will be mounted to the subframe top-covers instead of the TT.