Securitron TSB-3 - Manual (Page 2)

PN# 500-16400
Page 2
Rev. C, 11/07
screws (not supplied) on a solid wood door. By "solid wood", we mean hardwood interior rather than
pressed wood as the wood needs enough structural integrity to hold wood screws. This method is strong
and simple and has the advantage of not showing sex bolts heads from the outside of the door.
For a hollow metal door, drill four 3/8" (9.5 mm) diameter holes only deep enough to get through the
inner side of the door- not completely through the door.
For through bolt mounting on various door types, drill four 1/4" (6 mm) holes completely through the
door. For this type of installation (which may also be elected for a solid wood door) you will be using
screws and finishing sex bolts suitable for a 1 3/4" (44 mm) thick door supplied in the TSB-TDM kit.
Nearly all North American commercial doors are this thickness. If the doors you are working on are
different, you will have to purchase different length screws or apply some spacing techniques (described
later).
For a solid wood door, you may elect to mount the bar with wood screws (not furnished). We
recommend 2 3/4" (70 mm) #14 wood screws with a hex, pan, oval or round head. Drill four 3/16" (5
mm) diameter holes to a depth of 1 1/4" (30 mm).
2.3 WIREWAY HOLE DRILLING
The TSB-3 connects to its power source and to the devices it controls via a six-conductor cable with push-
on connector (supplied). There are several different methods of getting this cable from the TSB-3 to
external connection points. The first issue is whether the cable needs to enter the door (in which
case a wireway hole must be drilled in the door), or not. For most installations, it is preferred that the
cable enter the door. Exit from the door may be via the supplied door cord which may be mounted at the
top of the door where it is out of the way, or via any of many commercially available transfer hinges or
pivots (such as Securitron’s model EPT Electric Power Transfer or ELH Electric Hinge) which serve to route
the wiring off the door in a concealed manner. A wireway hole is then drilled into the door in the position
shown on the template. It should be 3/8" (9.5 mm) in diameter. The cable is then pulled into the door.
An alternate technique exists which does not route the cable into the door but which takes it directly
from the end piece to the frame via the door cord. This technique is preferred when the door type is
difficult to pull a wire through (such as any solid door). It is also a good technique when the frame is not
hollow as the door cord can route the cable directly from the end piece to a surface box mounted opposite
the end piece.
For the best security and appearance, you will not use the plastic door cord terminator when you route the
cord into the end piece. You will drill a hole in the plastic end piece. The hole should be drilled through
the bottom flat of the end piece on the hinge side. The ideal hole size is 23/64" (9.1 mm) but as this drill
size is unusual, 3/8" (9.5 mm) also works. On the next page, a drawing appears to the right which shows
you hole location in the end piece. Note that this drawing shows the end piece you would select if the
hinge side of the door was on the left. If it's on the right, use the other end piece but still locate the hole
at the inner, rear corner. With this method, the door cord is used to route the cable directly from the end
piece to the frame.
2.4 WIRE ROUTING
If you elect the method of wire routing which uses a hole in the end piece (see drawing above), you must
route your cable through the end piece prior to mounting the end piece to the door. This is
because the flat cable connector will not pass through the hole you have drilled in the end piece. Begin by
threading the cable end without the connector down through the elongated slot in the end piece (the
slot is directly under the circuit board). From there, route it through the drilled hole in
the end piece. Begin by threading the cable end without the
connector down through the elongated slot in the end piece (the slot
is directly under the circuit board). From there, route it through the
drilled hole in the end piece so that it exits the end piece. Next pass
the stainless door cord over the cable and slide it until you can push it
into the hole you have drilled in the end piece. Secure the stainless
cord inside the end piece with the supplied "E" clamp. See Figure 1.
It shows this assembly for the end piece you would use for a door with
hinges to the left. If the hinges are on the right, use the opposite end
piece. The drawing will be "reversed" but the concept is unchanged.
Note that if you are mounting to a surface box, a second "E" clamp has
been supplied so that you can simply drill a hole in the box and secure
the stainless cord from the inside with the second "E" clamp. If the
frame is hollow, you would employ the plastic door cord terminator
when you mount the other end of the door cord to the frame. You are
now ready to mount the bar to the door.
BOTTON VIEW OF
HINGE SIDE END
PIECE. DRILL 23/6
OR 3/8" HOLE AS
SHOWN, ABOUT
3/16" IN FROM
EACH EDGE.