Baumfolder Rebuilding a small, older folder - Manual (Page 4)

Section 1 - How to Rebuild a Baumfolder..... continued
while you tighten the bolts. If one makes the roll turn harder, you probably don't have it
align correctly.
25. Now trim off the shims that were taped to the frame even with the flanges on the main
drive roll sleeve.
PREPARING IDLER ROLLERS FOR INSTALLATION.
1. Most idler roll has the same journal on both ends. There should be a key way close to the
body of the roll. Insert the woodruff key, and with a fine file smooth any ruff edges of the
key.
2. The roll gear should have a square edge in the center opening and a beveled edge. The
beveled side should go toward the body of the roll. Line the gear on the roller journal,
shaft), with the woodruff key and press the gear on the journal until the gear is against the
body of the roll. Careful that the gear is pressed on straight and is aligned with the key. If
not, the metal scrapped from the key and/or the journal will not allow the gear to fit tight
against the body of the roll.
3. Remove the collars from the old idler rolls, clean the collar and remove any burrs with
fine emery cloth. Place the collar on the opposite journal against the body of the idler roll
and just snug the set screw against the flat area provided on the roll journal.. Any time
you tighten the set screw against the rounded part of the journal, it will leave a burr on
the journal and it will be difficult if not impossible to move the collar later. Complete
steps 2 and 3 on the three other idler rolls on a two plate folder or five idler rolls on a
three or four plate folder.
PREPARING ROLLER BOXING FOR INSTALLATION.
1. You will have either six or ten roller boxing depending on the number of fold plates in
the folder. Do all of them in pairs. Example, do both number one boxings, then number
two and etc.. Before you begin, Insert a new eccentric in the eccentric hole in the roll
boxing to make sure the roll boxing is not worn.
2. Before you press out the old bushing, the older folders had a small set screw with a point
on it that screwed into the bushing under the boxing. Check and if it has one, loosen the
set screw before pressing out the bushing. The cherry wood bushings and brass bushings
are pressed in and reamed the same way.
3. Check each roll boxing before pressing in the new bushing to insure you can drill the oil
hole in the bushing AFTER it is pressed in. If not, measure the location of the oil hole in
the roll boxing and drill a slightly larger hole in the bushing and line it with the oil hole in
the roll boxing before pressing the bushing into the roll boxing. When starting the
bushing, start the beveled end of the bushing into the beveled side of the roll boxing.
Allow the bushing to extend .015 past the surface on the side of the roll boxing toward
the body of the roll. Usually you can look on the side of the roll boxing for the witness
mark for the eccentric to identify the side toward the fold roll. Again this is to allow the
collar/gear to run against the bushing instead of the metal roll boxing. If this is not done,
the folder may begin squealing after it runs for a couple of hours. Then it is fun trying to
locate the location of the noise.
4. After pressing in the bushings in all of the roll boxings, tighten the set screw if the roll
boxing has one. Place the roll boxings in pairs, back to back and insert a 1/2" shaft
through the eccentric holes to align the two boxings. Now run a reamer the diameter of
the roller journal (shaft) through both bushings. Use an expansion reamer, to ream out
.002, again running through both bushings. The bushing on the idler rollers should be
.002 larger than the roller journal.
Section 1 - Page 4