Ryobi RLS1351 - Manual (Page 15)

15
OPERATiON
wARNiNg:
Always keep hands and body out of the path of the saw
blade. Failure to heed this warning could result in per-
sonal injury.
TO MAKE A CROSS CUT
See Figure 19, page 22.
A cross cut is made by cutting across the width of the
workpiece.
 Install the work clamp on the fence.
 Place the fence in the cross cut position (see page 11)
and set at 0°. Tighten the clamp knob securely.
 Pull out the lock pin and push the saw to the rear of the
saw table.
 Place the workpiece flat on the saw table with one edge
securely against the fence.
 Align cutting line on the workpiece with the edge of saw
blade. Use the work clamp to secure the workpiece. Do
not overtighten.
 Make sure the wood is clear of the blade before turning
on the saw.
 Turn the saw on.
 Let the blade build up to full speed before feeding the
workpiece into the blade.
 Grasp the saw handle firmly. Allow several seconds for
the blade to reach maximum speed.
 Slowly pull the blade into and through the workpiece.
 When the cut is made, turn the saw off. Wait for the
blade to come to a complete stop before removing the
workpiece.
TO MAKE A MiTER CUT
See Figure 20, page 22.
Miter cuts are made with the fence set at some angle other
than 0°.
 Install the work clamp on the fence.
 Place the fence in the miter cut position (see page 11)
and the fence to the desired angle. Tighten the clamp
knob securely.
 Pull out the lock pin and push the saw to the rear of the
saw table.
 Place the workpiece flat on the saw table with one edge
securely against the fence.
 Align cutting line on the workpiece with the edge of saw
blade. Use the work clamp to secure the workpiece. Do
not overtighten.
 Make sure the wood is clear of the blade before turning
on the saw.
 Turn the saw on.
 Let the blade build up to full speed before feeding the
workpiece into the blade.
 Grasp the saw handle firmly. Slowly pull the blade into
and through the workpiece.
 When the cut is made, turn the saw off. Wait for the
blade to come to a complete stop before removing the
workpiece.
TO MAKE A RiP CUT
See Figures 21 - 22, page 22.
Rip cuts are made with the saw locked in place. If the fence
isn’t properly squared to the blade, the cut edges of the
workpiece may blacken or scorch.
 Remove the work clamp from the fence.
 Push or pull the saw on the sliding rails until the lock pin
and hole in the rail are aligned.
 Push the lock pin in the hole locking the saw in place.
 Place the fence in the rip cut position (see page 11) the
desired distance from the blade for the cut. Tighten the
clamp knob securely.
 Lower the anti-kickback pawls (see page 14).
 Place the workpiece flat on the saw table with one edge
securely against the fence.
 Align cutting line on the workpiece with the indicator.
 Make sure the wood is clear of the blade before turning
on the saw.
 When ripping a long workpiece, place a support the same
height as the table surface behind the saw for the cut
work.
 Turn the saw on.
 Let the blade build up to full speed before feeding the
workpiece into the blade.
 Once the blade has made contact with the workpiece,
use the hand closest to the fence to guide it. Make sure
the edge of the workpiece remains in solid contact with
both the fence and the surface of the table. Use a push
stick and/or push blocks to move the piece through the
cut and past the blade.
 When the cut is made, turn the saw off. Wait for the
blade to come to a complete stop before removing the
workpiece.