Great Planes Pete 'n Poke 40 Kit - GPMA0493 User Manual

Page 34

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34

Cover the model following the suggested covering
sequence.

Tail Surfaces:

1. Bottom, then the top up to the lines you marked,
leaving the center uncovered for gluing to the fuse. Cut
the covering over the vent-holes drilled near the tips so
heated air can escape.

2. Bottom, then the top of the elevators.

3. Rudder. (The fin will be covered after the fuselage is
covered.)

Fuselage:

1. Hatches

2. Bottom

3. Sides

4. Fin

5. Landing gear covers

Wing:

1. Circular cut-out in the trailing edge of the center-
section.

2. Bottom of wing tips.

3. Bottom of wing.

4. Top of wing.

5. Ailerons.

6. Cover (or paint) the static struts.

Now that the fuselage has been covered, it’s finally time to
glue the main wing struts to the fuse. But first, the stab must
be glued into position so the wing incidence can be
confirmed.

1. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the stab into the fuse.

Use the “pin-and-string” technique to confirm that the stab is
aligned and centered just the same as you did while building
the model. Use a tissue dampened with alcohol or other
solvent to wipe away excess epoxy before it hardens.

2. Trim the covering from the fuse where the main wing

struts fit.

3. Temporarily join the elevators to the stab with the

hinges. Place the incidence meter on the stab, being certain

that the elevator remains centered. The same as was done
before, raise the aft end of the fuse so the stab is level and
the incidence meter reads zero.

During the next two steps it will be important to proceed
rapidly, so the correct wing incidence can be finalized.

1. Mix up a batch of 30-minute epoxy. Thoroughly coat

the main wing struts and the insides of the “pockets” in the
fuse where the struts go. Fit the struts into the fuse.

2. Bolt the wing to the struts. Confirm that the stab is still

set at zero degrees. Attach the incidence meter to the wing
and measure the incidence. It should read 1 degree positive,
just the same as when you were building the struts during
construction. If necessary, raise the front or aft struts slightly
to achieve one degree of wing incidence when the stab is
zero. Wipe away excess epoxy before it hardens and do not
disturb the model.

3. After the epoxy has fully hardened, finish-sand the

cross braces, rounding the corners to match the main wing
struts. Remove the wing from the fuse. Place waxed paper
on top of the forward support, then bolt the wing back to the
fuse. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the cross braces to the
main wing struts as shown on the plan and in the photo at
step 19 on page 32.

4. Remove the wing from the struts. Paint the struts with

fuelproof paint. It is best to brush-paint the struts. If you only
have spray paint (such as Top Flite LustreKote

®

), spray the

paint through a tube (to keep most of it from becoming
airborne) into a cup. Do this in a well ventilated area. Allow
LustreKote to sit for about 30 minutes before brushing it onto
the struts.

5. While you have some fuelproof paint ready, coat the

engine mount and the front of former F1-A. Coat other areas
of the model that require protection from engine exhaust
such as the grooves in the main landing gear mounts, the
holes near the bottom of the fuse for the static struts, the
cockpits (if you haven’t done so already), the fuel tank area
and the inside of the hatches.

1. If you haven’t done so already, paint the cockpit interior

with fuelproof paint. Cut out the instrument panel decals and

Finish the Cockpits

Glue the Main Wing Struts into Position

Cover the Model

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