Great Planes Ultra Sport 40 Kit - GPMA0410 - Manual (Page 38)

Finally, cover the stab and fin with pre-cut pieces
that have a straight edge to overlap (1/8"+ overlap)
the strips you previously applied. DO NOT, under
any circumstances, attempt to cut the covering
material after it has been applied to the fin and
stab, except around the leading and trailing
edges and the tip. Modelers who do this often cut
through the covering and part-way into the balsa
stab. This can weaken the stab to the point where it
may fail in flight!
Recommended Covering Sequence:
1. Strips as described in above note
2. Rudder left side
3. Rudder right side
4. Bottom of elevators
5. Top of elevators
6. Stab bottom
7. Stab top
8. Fuse bottom
9. Wing fillets*
10. Fuse sides
11. Fuse top
12. Fin left side
13. Fin right side
14. Ends of ailerons
15. Bottom of ailerons
16. Top of ailerons
17. Aileron openings in wing
18. Wing fairings (on bottom of wing)
19. Bottom of left wing panel
20. Bottom of right wing panel
21. Top of left wing panel (overlap covering 1/4" at
wingLE)
22. Top of right wing panel (overlap covering 1/2"
at the center and 1/4" at the LE)
*When covering concave surfaces, follow the iron
with a damp cloth, pressing the covering down.
IMPORTANT - Use coarse sandpaper to roughen
both sides of the hinges for a good glue bond.
the hinges to make sure you have "found" the slots
which you previously cut. In the same manner, slit the
covering at the hinge locations in the wing, stab and fin
TE. Also cut the covering away from the torque rod and
tailgear slots.
NOTE: When gluing in the nylon tailgear bearing
and the hinges, do not just smear glue on the hinge
and push it into the slot, as most of the glue will be
wiped off as it is being pushed in. You must also
work some glue into the slot. A good way of doing
this is to scoop up some epoxy with a plastic soda
straw, then pinch the end of the straw, insert it into
the hinge slot, and squeeze the straw to force glue
into the slot. Apply epoxy to the hinge, then insert
the hinge into the slot. We recommend 30 minute
epoxy for this process. After pushing in the hinge,
wipe away all excess glue with a tissue dampened
with rubbing alcohol.
2. Glue the hinges (and tailgear bearing) into the
slots in the wing, stab and fin TE using the above process
and allow the glue to harden before proceeding.
3. Put epoxy into the slots in the elevators and on
the corresponding hinges, then push the elevators onto
the hinges and wipe away all excess epoxy with a tissue
(for best results dampen the tissue with rubbing alcohol).
4. Using coarse sandpaper, roughen the part of the
aileron torque rods that will be glued into the ailerons,
then clean off the sanded portion of the rods with alcohol.
Roughen and clean the tailgear wire in the same manner.
Using a toothpick, apply a small amount of Vaseline
where the torque rods and tailgear wire enter the nylon
bearing tubes (to prevent glue from getting inside and
locking them up).
GLUE THE HINGES 5. Put epoxy into the rudder hinge slots (and the
tailgear hole), push the rudder into place and wipe off all
excess epoxy.
1. Lay the rudder, elevators and ailerons on the
plans and mark on the leading edge of each part the
locations of the hinges, torque rods (and tailgear if you
have built a taildragger). Now use a sharp Xacto knife to
cut slits in the covering at the hinge locations. Trial fit 6. Put epoxy into the aileron hinge slots and the
torque rod holes, push the ailerons into place and wipe
off all excess epoxy.
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