High Lifter Dalton Pro Mudrunner Clutch Kit for Can-Am Outlander_Renegade 800 HO, 800 R (06-12) - Manual (Page 3)

D) After setting up the provided flyweights properly for your application (* See attached “flyweight set – up” for
recommended application), install the new flyweights into the clutch and secure the pins / nuts the same way as
they were removed. Be certain to put metal washers back in place (one each side of flyweight) before putting the pin
through the weight. Carefully slide the spider assembly back down onto the moveable sheave assembly, making sure
the plastic buttons are still in place properly and the spider is in the CORRECT POSITION with ROLLERS over
each flyweight and the marks you made in the correct position. With the moveable sheave / spider assembly back
together, keep it together and reinstall as a unit, along with the new primary spring. Note: It is normal for the spring
to be a snug fit. Install the new spring into the clutch first with a twisting action, then install the whole unit and re-
torque as per dealer service manual. (74ft lbs)
10) Re-install plastic cover shroud, floorboards, etc. Note: Be certain that the cover gasket is properly in place and use
caution not to cross thread the cover bolts.
Carefully inspect all wires, clamps, etc during re-assembly.
General Overview and CVT tuning – Can Am 800
Before moving to “Flyweight Set-Up “ take a moment to read a bit of basic CVT tuning theory. CVT tuning can get very
involved and there are books written on theory of operation itself and the various ways to change the way the system
reacts to loads,etc by changing or altering the tuning components(spring rate,flyweights,etc).Flyweights alone can be a
long discussed topic,as on a flyweight type system,the curvature,distribution of mass,etc can dramatically change shift
characteristics.Many inexperienced tuners often make the mistake of comparing flyweights by “grams” alone. We have
tested and developed various flyweights for this model during testing,and the chosen curvature and mass locations,as
well as the adjustability were the result. Following is a basic overview to help you understand if you are unfamiliar with
cvt function.
Changing CVT tuning components is done for many different reasons,but the thing that you are doing is ultimately
changing the rate of upshift and back shift of the belt in the pulley system.The factory sends the machine with a
calibration that they feel is a good “all around” set up. The factory set up not only has to be able to tow a trailer,do ok in a
drag race,climb and backshift decently, but it also has to consider fuel economy and emissions during its testing. Many
owners of ATV's have a desire to re-calibrate the clutch system more specifically to their needs based on their own
usage,and situation. Common reasons are racing,oversized tires,altitude,mud running,or towing. For instance ,if you are
a fan of mud and big tires,it is obvious that the taller final drive ratio from installing the tires changes things. With larger
tires and more rotating weight,the last thing you would want would be to upshift too quickly and kill the rpm too
rapidly,so you want that initial upshift to be slower.If you install tires much larger than the acceptable envelope that the
manufacturer recommends,you can easily burn belts,the CVT systems can't change the actual gear ratio,but by re-
calibrating it(changing the rate of shift of the belt),you can often change the shift pattern to help get better results for your
application. It will hold its correct rpm better by properly shifting on its own to the proper belt ratio as it comes under
load(backshifting),etc based on what you set it up to do. If your machine was still upshifting quickly(like you can get
away with with small stock tires) it would lower the rpm lower than the peak hp rpm and performance would suffer.
It is also very important to remember that cvt tuning parts only control the rpm during the “clutching phase” The
clutch phase is when the belt is going from low ratio to high ratio. ATV's are not like snowmobiles,..on ATV's the
“clutch phase”is over in a distance of approximately 500 ft on a full throttle run . Once the belt is to the top of the
primary clutch,it is to the top and clutch components no longer control the rpm after that point. With stock tires the
engine will often start to overrev,but it is because the belt can shift no farther to control it. For atv testing it is good to use
short distances(200 ft and 400 ft) to determine clutch rpm. Dalton adjustable flyweights help make it flexible.
Flyweights- Flyweights are the principal item to control rpm during the clutch phase. Heavier weights upshift faster
and lower the rpm. Lighter weights upshift slower and thus increase rpm during the clutch phase. It is NOT that
lower,or higher rpm is better. Ideally,you want the clutch calibrated to shift the belt at the correct rate to hold the rpm at
the rpm that the engine makes best HP. If an engine makes peak hp at 7000,then having it calibrated to run at 7600 is
probably much worse than if set up to run at 6900,as many crankshaft engine dynos will easily prove.The proper amount
of flyweight mass is determined by both the other cvt tuning components being used, the given situation or intended
use of the vehicle, and ultimately the field tested results for best efficiency for the situation at hand.
As an example look at our DBO800R(stock to 28 in tires) kit for the Renegade model .The stock tires set up in that kit is
different than in the DBO800 kit for the Outlander.For stock tires on the renegade kit,you use the same base weight,but it
calls for the heavier 3.6g rivet.Compared to a Outlander, renegade is a much lighter vehicle,it has smaller stock tires(you
can get away with upshifting faster),and it uses lighter different flyweights in the 3 stock positions.