Gauge installation, Gauge lighting – Banks Power Pyrometer User Manual

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When passing through the firewall,
either make a hole in a factory
grommet or drill a hole and use
a new grommet. If a hole needs
to be drilled, drill a

5

16

” hole and

deburr it on both sides, so that the
wiring or tubing does not get cut
as it passes through the hole. For
added protection, wrap the wiring
with several layers of electrical
tape in the area where it passes
through the hole. When drilling,
check the backside to make sure
that there are no components
blocking the back side of the hole
that would be damaged by drilling.

On the sensor end, connect the
wires to the sensor with the
supplied screws. The wires are
different lengths to prevent cross-
connecting. Make sure that the
screws are tight.

Slide the heat shrink tubing
provided over the connections and
apply heat to the tubing with a
heat-gun or other heat source.

Gauge Installation

Position the gauge through the
console or gauge panel. Slip the
plastic U-clamp, provided with the
pyrometer, over the studs on the
rear of the gauge and tighten the
nuts, provided.

NOTE: If it is necessary to
replace one of the terminal
ends, use a crimp-tool only. Do
not solder the wires.

Gauge lighting

connect the 4-pin male connector
to the 4-pin female connector
on the back of the gauge. Using
the wiring kit provided, strip and
connect one end of each of the
six-foot wires to wires on the 4-pin
connector assembly with the butt
connectors, using an appropriate
crimp tool. Make sure to connect
the red wires to the (+) terminal
and the black wires to the ground.
Incorrect wiring will result in a
non-working LED. (See Figure 3).
If more than one gauge is being
used, the wires from other 4-pin

connectors may be doubled up in
the butt connectors. No more than
two wires should be in either end
of the butt connector. Route the
red wire to the fuse panel. Identify
the circuit for the dashboard lights
and remove the fuse. Install the
appropriate fuse tap under the
non-powered leg of the fuse. This
is the socket that has no power
when the dash light switch is on,
as tested with a test-light or multi-
meter. cut and strip the red wire
to an appropriate length and install
the female push-on connector.
connect the wire to the fuse tap.
Route the black wire to a location
where a good ground can be
found. cut and strip the wire to an
appropriate length and crimp the
ring terminal to the wire. Install the
ring terminal under an existing bolt
or washer, or use the self-tapping
screw provided to connect to the
ground.

Route all wiring away from
any pedals or other moving
components. Using the cable ties
supplied, secure the wiring under
the dash.

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