Mallory Ignition Mallory ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE - Manual

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ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
The following pertains primarily to Mallory COMP
Pumps equipped with Gerotor style pump systems,
but also applies to many other fuel systems.
BASIC INFORMATION
The Mallory Gerotor style COMP Pumps are more for-
giving than vane style pumps, but it is still important
to insure they are properly mounted and receive clean
fuel.
The correct mounting position is even with or below
the tank and preferably behind or next to the fuel tank.
All electric pumps push fuel far better than they can
pull (suck) fuel.
Make sure that a low restriction filter is between the
tank and the pump. A 40-micron element it sufficient
to protect the pump from contamination such as dirt,
rust, fuel cell foam, etc. Mallory has them available
that will screw directly into the pump itself.
Electric pumps need a clean and stable power source.
Run a minimum of 12 gauge wires to the pump if it is
relatively close to the power source. Longer runs
should utilize 10 gauge wire instead. With a trunk-
mounted battery, we recommend that you use a relay
to allow for short power wires to be run. Do not pull
power from a common terminal, especially if the
ignition is wired to the same terminal.
The regulator used must be properly matched to the
flow characteristics of the fuel pump. Refer to the
compatibility information in the current Mallory
Catalog. Small regulators and big pumps don’t work.
Also, check to make sure the pump and regulator are
designed for the type of fuel that is going to be used.
For the longest possible life from your Mallory or
any other brand of electric fuel pump, it is highly
recommended that you use a bypass style regulator.
This allows the pump to run cooler, keeps the fuel
cooler reducing the chance of vapor lock, draw less
amperage, and supply constant flow of fuel. The
minor inconvenience that running a return line to the
tank presents is more than offset by the positives
mentioned above.
Fuel line size is based on the length of the lines in
addition to the intended use. The supply line to the
engine is based on the horsepower of the engine. The
return line size is based on the total volume of the fuel
pump. Basically, to insure stable fuel pressure, the
return line should be of sufficient diameter to handle
the full volume of the fuel pump without the engine
running. That means that the return should be as big
or bigger than the supply line
Use liquid Teflon or a suitable pipe dope and not
Teflon tape on all threaded fuel systems connections.
Pieces of the tape can break off as they are being
assembled and plug up lines, get stuck on small
passages, and even seize up a pump if they are
large enough.
Don’t buy cheap fittings. Use low restriction fittings,
preferably CNC machined ones like those listed in the
Mallory catalog. Tightly angled fittings can be just as
bad of a restriction as too small of a line size. The
larger the radius, the better and make sure that you
buy quality fuel lines. Look at them closely and make
sure they have a large inside diameter. That especially
applies to some of the low cost dual feed lines being
sold today. Some 3/8" OD lines are 1/4" or less ID.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Q.- Why can’t I adjust my fuel pressure down? Even
with the adjuster backed all of the way out, I still
have too much.
A.- Start by checking to make sure the regulator is
suitable for the pump you have installed. Next, if
it is a bypass system, check the return line size.
If the return line is too small, the regulator isn’t
causing the pressure, rather it’s the return line size
is too small. This is especially a problem when
the factory return line is used. Ford Mustangs are
probably the most common offenders.
There are a couple ways to prove it. The easiest
way is to remove the spring from the regulator.
Without starting the engine, turn on the pump.
The pressure gauge must read less than 3 PSI on
a carburetor-equipped engine and less than 10
PSI with high-pressure fuel injection.