Team Associated RC10 - Manual (Page 19)

19
:: Tuning Tips (cont.)
Front Camber Links:
Changing the length of the camber link is considered a bigger step than adjusting the ball end height on the tower.
Shortening the camber link will give the front end less roll and quicken steering response. Lengthening the camber link
(or raising the ball end) will give the front more roll and slower steering response.
Caster:
Caster describes the angle of the kingpin as it leans toward the rear of the vehicle. Positive caster means the kingpin
leans rearward at the top. The supplied 30° caster blocks (#6210) are recommended in most cases. For less corner
entry steering and more exit steering, try the optional 15° caster blocks (#6213).
Rear Camber:
Camber describes the angle at which the tire and wheel rides when looked at from the back. Negative camber means
that the tire leans inward at the top. A good starting camber setting is -1°. Use the included #1719 camber gauge to
set your camber. Adding a small amount of positive camber, where the top of the tire is leaning out, will tend to improve
straight-line acceleration on loose tracks.
Front Camber:
Camber describes the angle at which the tire and wheel rides when
looked at from the front. Negative camber means that the tire leans
inward at the top. A good starting camber setting is -1°. Use the
included #1719 camber gauge to set your camber. Positive camber,
where the top of the tire is leaning out, is not recommended.
*Checking camber
with camber gauge
!
Rear Camber Link:
Changing the length of the camber link is considered a bigger step than adjusting the ball end height on
the rear chassis brace. Shortening the camber link (or lowering the ball end) will give the rear end less
roll and the car will tend to accelerate or “square up” better. Lengthening the camber link (or raising
the ball end) will give the rear more roll and more cornering grip. In order to run some of the very short
link locations, a shorter turnbuckle will be required.
!
*Raise or lower
the ball end by
adjusting the
ballstud location
on the bulkhead
Ride Height:
Ride height is the distance from the ground to the bottom of the
chassis. The standard front ride height setting is with the front arms
just below level or 24mm (Ride Height Gauge #1449). Check the
ride height by lifting up the entire car about 8-12 inches off the bench
and drop it. After the suspension “settles” into place, measure ride
height (Ride Height Gauge #1449). Raise or lower the shock collars
as necessary so that the left & right arms appear to be level.
The rear ride height setting you should use most often is with the
outdrive, driveshaft, and axles all on the same imaginary horizontal
line (reffered to as “bones level”) or 24mm (Ride Height Gauge
#1449). Check the ride height by lifting up the entire car about 8-12
inches off the bench and drop it. After the suspension “settles” into
place, measure ride height (Ride Height Gauge #1449). Raise or
lower the shock collars as necessary so that the left & right
driveshafts appear to be level.
*Front arms should
be just below level
ride height
*TIP: Set the rear dog bones level and then
adjusting the front to make the chassis
parallel to the ground.
*Dog bones should
be in a straight line
when ride height is
set at “Bones level”
!
!
!
Motor Maintenance:
Brushed motors require frequent maintenance to keep performance levels at their maximum. Between runs and after
letting the motor cool completely, inspect the brushes to ensure that they are moving freely in their holders. Remove
the springs and slide the brushes in and out of their holders checking for any resistance or rough spots. If found,
remove the brush and carefully wipe it clean. Removing buildup will allow the brush to slide freely and create maximum
contact with the commutator resulting in maximum power output. After every 3-5 runs, remove the brushes from
their holders and inspect the tips for wear or burning. If there is noticeable wear (less than 75% of the brush
remaining), it is best to cut the commutator and replace the brushes with a new pair. If the tips become a burned blue
color, the lubricant in the brush has been burned away and new brushes should be installed. Occasionally, the motor
should be cleaned with a soft brush to prevent dirt build up around the brush hood area and ball bearings.
At this time, it is a good idea to add one drop of bushing / bearing oil to each bushing or ball bearing.
If using a brushless motor, please refer to the motor manufacturer’s guidelines for proper maintenance.