Cleveland Range SEL-30-T1 - Manual (Page 8)

STAINLESS STEEL EQUIPMENT CARE AND CLEANING
(Suppied courtesy of Nafem. For more information visit their web site at www.nafem.org)
Contrary to popular belief, stainless steels ARE susceptible to rusting.
Corrosion on metals is everywhere. It is recognized quickly on iron and
steel as unsightly yellow/orange rust. Such metals are called “active”
because they actively corrode in a natural environment when their atoms
combine with oxygen to form rust.
Stainless steels are passive metals because they contain other metals, like
chromium, nickel and manganese that stabilize the atoms. 400 series stain-
less steels are called ferritic, contain chromium, and are magnetic; 300
series stainless steels are called austenitic, contain chromium and nickel;
and 200 series stainless, also austenitic, contains manganese, nitrogen
and carbon. Austenitic types of stainless are not magnetic, and generally
provide greater resistance to corrosion than ferritic types.
With 12-30 percent chromium, an invisible passive film covers the steel’s
surface acting as a shield against corrosion. As long as the film is intact
and not broken or contaminated, the metal is passive and stain-less. If the
passive film of stainless steel has been broken, equipment starts to cor-
rode. At its end, it rusts.
Enemies of Stainless Steel
There are three basic things which can break down stainless steel’s passiv-
ity layer and allow corrosion to occur.
1. Mechanical abrasion
2. Deposits and water
3. Chlorides
Mechanical abrasion means those things that will scratch a steel surface.
Steel pads, wire brushes and scrapers are prime examples.
Water comes out of the faucet in varying degrees of hardness. Depending
on what part of the country you live in, you may have hard or soft water.
Hard water may leave spots, and when heated leave deposits behind that
if left to sit, will break down the passive layer and rust stainless steel. Other
deposits from food preparation and service must be properly removed.
Chlorides are found nearly everywhere. They are in water, food and table
salt. One of the worst chloride perpetrators can come from household and
industrial cleaners.
So what does all this mean? Don’t Despair!
Here are a few steps that can help prevent stainless steel rust.
1. Use the proper tools.
When cleaning stainless steel products, use non-abrasive tools. Soft
cloths and plastic scouring pads will not harm steel’s passive layer.
Stainless steel pads also can be used but the scrubbing motion must
be in the direction of the manufacturers’ polishing marks.
2. Clean with the polish lines.
Some stainless steel comes with visible polishing lines or “grain.”
When visible lines are present, always scrub in a motion parallel to the
lines. When the grain cannot be seen, play it safe and use a soft cloth
or plastic scouring pad.
3. Use alkaline, alkaline chlorinated or non-chloride containing cleaners.
While many traditional cleaners are loaded with chlorides, the industry
is providing an ever-increasing choice of non-chloride cleaners. If you
are not sure of chloride content in the cleaner used, contact your cleaner
supplier. If your present cleaner contains chlorides, ask your supplier if
they have an alternative. Avoid cleaners containing quaternary salts; it
also can attack stainless steel and cause pitting and rusting.
4. Treat your water.
Though this is not always practical, softening hard water can do much
to reduce deposits. There are certain filters that can be installed to
remove distasteful and corrosive elements. To insure proper water
treatment, call a treatment specialist.
5. Keep your food equipment clean.
Use alkaline, alkaline chlorinated or non-chloride cleaners at recom-
mended strength. Clean frequently to avoid build-up of hard, stubborn
stains. If you boil water in stainless steel equipment, remember the sin-
gle most likely cause of damage is chlorides in the water. Heating
cleaners that contain chlorides have a similar effect.
6. Rinse, rinse, rinse.
If chlorinated cleaners are used, rinse and wipe equipment and sup-
plies dry immediately. The sooner you wipe off standing water, espe-
cially when it contains cleaning agents, the better. After wiping equip-
ment down, allow it to air dry; oxygen helps maintain the stainless
steel’s passivity film.
7. Never use hydrochloric acid (muriatic acid) on stainless steel.
8. Regularly restore/passivate stainless steel.
Recommended cleaners for specific situations
Job Cleaning Agent Comments
Routine cleaning Soap, ammonia, Apply with cloth or sponge
detergent, Medallion
Fingerprints & smears Arcal 20, Lac-O-Nu Provides barrier film
Ecoshine
Stubborn stains & Cameo, Talc, Zud, Rub in direction of polish lines
discoloration First Impression
Grease & fatty acids, Easy-off, De-Grease Excellent removal on all finishes
blood, burnt-on-foods It Oven Aid
Grease & oil Any good Apply with sponge or cloth
commercial detergent
Restoration/Passivation Benefit, Super Sheen
Review
1. Stainless steels rust when passivity (film-shield) breaks down as a
result of scrapes, scratches, deposits and chlorides.
2. Stainless steel rust starts with pits and cracks.
3. Use the proper tools. Do not use steel pads, wire brushes or scrapers
to clean stainless steel.
4. Use non-chlorinated cleaners at recommended concentrations. Use
only chloride- free cleaners.
5. Soften your water. Use filters and softeners whenever possible.
6. Wipe off cleaning agent(s) and standing water as soon as possible.
Prolonged contact causes eventual problems.
To learn more about chloride-stress corrosion and how to prevent it, con-
tact the equipment manufacturer or cleaning materials supplier.
Developed by Packer Engineering, Naperville, Ill., an independent testing
laboratory.