PerTronix JBA Exhaust 1676S-1 - Manual (Page 2)

PerTronix © thanks you for choosing JBA HEADERS, the best fitting, highest quality header on the market. In
order to realize the full potential of our good fit, please read and understand these instructions completely prior to
starting work.
Check to make sure you received the proper parts for your application. The header number will be stamped on the
engine flange. If you are unsure you have received the proper parts call before you start work.
Be sure to work safe! Whenever you work under the vehicle be sure that it is located on level, solid ground and is
supported by adequate safety stands! Remember: Hot asphalt will not support most jack stands!
Many factors affect the installation of headers, some of which are broken or aftermarket motor mounts, accidents
that impact the configuration of the frame, and/or the installation of different engines or aftermarket cylinder
heads.
Attention Customers breaking in new engines: Due to the extreme heat generated during the break-in process,
the appearance of the ceramic coating may be altered in certain areas. The protection characteristics and thermal
barrier properties of the coating is never compromised. It is recommended that a cast iron manifold or old set of
headers be used for this process.
Notice: The coating of these headers can be marred or scratched during installation. If the header needs to be re-
turned and is damaged, you will be charged for recoat.
JBA uses sealing beads on all its headers. We have found that when installed correctly, the raised bead around each port
increases the pressure exerted on the gasket directly adjacent to the port and effectively prevents leaking gaskets. It is
normal for the flange to be raised off the cylinder head the thickness of the sealing bead. It is important when installing
the header, to install all bolts loosely, then tighten evenly to ensure the flat installation of the flange. The torque sequence
from one flange to another will vary, but generally every bolt on a header should be first fit snug, starting from the inside
of the flange working out, alternating from top to bottom so that the bolt connects the flange to the manifold to the point
where they barely touch. Second, using the same inside-out pattern, tighten each bolt until finished. This method will
help prevent leakage and will give the user the best possible performance out of their pair of headers.
1. Place vehicle in a location where the floor is solid and flat, with adequate lighting. Do not attempt to work on a hot
engine. Heat causes metal to expand and makes removal of fasteners difficult at best. Disconnect the negative battery
cable from the battery. Raise the front of the vehicle to obtain adequate access to the bottom exhaust manifold flanges. Use
large-base jack stands to support the vehicle. Do not rely on the jack! Block the tires to prevent the vehicle from rolling off
the jack stands.
2. Apply penetrating oil on all accessible fasteners and fittings before attempting to remove them.
3. From underneath the vehicle, unbolt factory the exhaust system from the exhaust manifold collectors. Pry the exhaust
system back about 1/2” to gain workspace. Spraying the rubber exhaust hangers with WD-40 may help.
4. Remove the passenger side front tire, and inner fender panel. The inner fender panel is held in place with a combination
of Phillips head screws, hex head screws, and “Christmas Tree” fasteners which “snap” off.