PerTronix JBA Exhaust 1830S-6 - Manual (Page 3)

7. On applications with air injection tubes, remove the air injection tubes from your manifolds and install them on the new
headers.
8. Re-install the spark plugs and plug wires using a straight boot on the #5 cylinder (driver side, 3rd cylinder back) with
the heat shield slipped onto boot, spring end out and 90 ºboots on all the others. JBA offers a set Power Cable ™ignition
wires, part no. 0834, that are tailored specifically for this application. You can purchase a set from your JBA dealer.
To prevent leakage, it is important to tighten the flanges on any set of JBA headers carefully by using the proper proce-
dure. The torque sequence from one flange to another will vary, but generally every bolt on a header should be first fit
snug, starting from the inside of the flange working out, so that the bolt connects the flange to the manifold to the point
where they barely touch. Second, using the same inside-out pattern, tighten each bolt until finished. This method will
help prevent leakage and will give the user the best possible performance out of their pair of headers. Below is the proper
torque sequence for your particular set of headers:
NOTE: Spark plug access on the passenger side is limited. We suggest using an offset box wrench or a modified plug
socket for installation.
9. On applications with heat riser (flapper valve), use a replacement for a big block Chevy truck such as a Maremont part
#X-1059 (std. 2-1/2) or X-1059 W.V. (with vacuum diaphragm)
10. Reconnect your exhaust system using the provided hardware or have a new system installed to further improve the
exhaust flow.
11. Check to make sure there is adequate clearance on plug wires, battery cables, wire looms, brake lines, etc.
12. Re-connect battery cables.
13. Recheck everything!
14. Start the engine and let it warm up. Check for leaks. Shut engine off and let it cool down. Check to make sure all fas-
teners are tight.
15. ALL TUBULAR HEADERS require maintenance including periodically checking and
retightening of the header bolts. The power steering pump must be freed from its bracketry
in order to remove the driver’s side manifold. This is due to the design of the power steer-
ing pump/alternator bracketry. The steel bracket is fastened to the exhaust manifold studs on
both sides of the front exhaust port. The studs cannot be removed until the bracket is pulled
outward from the engine. The bracket cannot be pulled outward until the power steering
pump is removed from the aluminum bracket. Besides, the steel bracket needs to be removed
to modify it anyway! In other words, yes you really do have to go through this step. Remove
the top half of the fan shroud. Remove the serpentine belt. Using a pulley remover (Snap-
On CJ117A or equivalent), remove the power steering pump pulley. The three bolts on the
front of the power steering pump may now be removed. Remove the bolt going from the
black steel bracket into the back of the alternator. Remove the nuts holding the black steel
bracket to the head on both sides of the number one exhaust port. The black steel bracket is
still attached to the back of the power steering pump. The pump assembly should be loose
enough to wiggle outward from the engine such that the remaining two nuts holding the steel
bracket to the back of the pump can be removed. The black steel bracket should now be free.
Remove the steel bracket. Using a hack saw, abrasive cut-off wheel, or band saw, cut the
bracket as shown in figure 2. Grind the bracket for clearance as indicated in Fig 2.Clean up
the edges with a file or sander and repaint.